Bench Grinder(slow speed)

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wrote:

Yes, I learned some of those details while I was reading more about the Oneway system. IIRC, someone provided some info about how to bore out the centers of the wheels. I don't have a DP yet though, so I'm not sure where that leaves me for the time being.
Thank you! Bill
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My recollection of drilling out the centers of the grinding wheels, is that I didn't use a drill press. I believe I used a brace[1] as I wanted to be sure nothing would get out of control on me. Once the bit started chewing on the plastic, there wasn't much material in the actual grinding wheel that needed to be removed.
[1]: The brace I used is a little different than the typical one you find. Mine has four fingers in the chuck and can properly grip standard drill bits.
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wrote:

Michael,
I can understand your wish to make sure nothing would get out of control on such an operation! I have a brace (and some of the standard auger bits that accompanied it)--I was just keeping it around for "posterity", maybe I should check if I have a 1" auger bit. That's what I would use, correct?
Hmmm. maybe those (auger) bits I have are not suitable for use with this sort of material?
I'll have to keep thinking about a solution to this. I wonder if Woodcraft or Rockler could assist me?
Thank you, Bill
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wrote:

You don't want to use an auger bit as it will not center on the hole. Use a regular twist bit.
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wrote:

Thank you for your comment. I may need to purchase one of those regular 1" bits. I hope they have them for 3/8" drive! I'll go take a look at Sears...
Bill
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wrote:

Sears has them for about $28...1/2" drive of course. I don't think I'm comfortable doing this without a drill press anyway. Maybe I can pay someone at Woodcraft to drill.
Thank you, Bill
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If drilling - not on a lathe ? -
I'd use a cone drill that maxes out to that size. It self centers and if several steps are in action - will continue. Mine have carbide blades on a slot in the cone and does nice in high chrome steel.
A twist drill won't center - as the hole is already there. It would have to be centered and the drill driven there as on a lathe.
I'd be concerned to balance - Please plan on truing them up with a diamond as an unbalanced wheel can explode.
Martin
Bill wrote:

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No, you need a twist type bit that can seat into the hole that's all ready there. I used a bit from this set, from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?ItemnumberR7
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wrote:

Thanks Michael. Did you mention earlier that you accomplished this operation with a hand drill?
Best, Bill
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Yes, I did it with a brace. Most of the material to be removed is the plastic insert. Several turns with the brace, and most of the plastic caught on the bit and just tore out. Once the plastic came out, there was not very much material that had to be removed from the grinding wheel itself.
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wrote:

Thank you. I appreciate the guidance you've provided me regarding this! It likely will not be until May, but I will post some sort of review of how things work out. Thanks again!
Bill
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wrote:

I bought the slow-speed grinder at Woodcraft. Believe me, you do not want this one, it vibrates a lot. I returned it.
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I have the 1725 rpm grinder from Woodcraft. 8". Works fine. Comes with 2 white oxide grindng wheels so no need to buy any.
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On Mar 5, 8:28pm, " snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com"

Swapped the fine wheel for a buff -- same machine takes my edges from start to finish. Replaced the tool rests with a Veritas. It's been serving me fine for 15 years.
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