Belt size for DW746 TS

I have a DW746 TS and am thinking of getting a link belt. What size belt do I need? This may seem like a stupid question (and may even be one), -- after all, why don't I just measure the belt I have? Well, IME actual measurements for some things do not match their designated size. (Insert your joke, here.) I checked the DW website and the manual and could not find a size mentioned, just the part number. Anyone know the answer or how to discern it? (Grizzly sells 3/8, 1/2, and 5/8 inch belts. HF sells on 1/2 inch.)
As for the link belt itself, once I determine the width, how do I determine proper length? Do I have to loosen the motor to get the belt on? If so, will that require a complete re-alignment of the saw? I googled this topic and all I found was pros and cons of the link belt, not install info. (Maybe I missed it.) TIA. -- Igor
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1/2" width, just lift up the motor and take your old belt with you for the length. Made a large difference in my saw.
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The belt is held on by gravity - lift motor, remove belt, install new belt, lower motor. No adjustments or tools required. The motor is suspended on the belt - the weight of the motor gives it tension.
I got a 1/2" universal link belt and just removed links to get to the same diameter as the original V-belt.
Another note on the DW746 - I just wired mine for 220V. WOW - what a difference!

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gw -- Thanks for that step-by-step. Any details you can offer on the improvement now w/ 220v? I could do that but it would take my last spaces in the subpanel. So, details would help me justify that -- or getting a larger subpanel. Again, thanks -- Igor
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You could probably get away with the 14/3 that's already there, but I needed the extra length.
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Absolutely!. Thanks. -- Igor
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Better than I said it. I'd only add, wire is cheap. When running a drop to your shop or to an individual tool, going overboard on wire gauge is an insignificant expense. Use heavy wire.
bob g.
Gary W wrote:

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What I've done is kind of Rube Goldberg so I don't know if I should advocate but... I'm one guy, I can't use more than one tool and the dust collector at a time. I wired one breaker to a dryer outlet next to the panel. I plug a ten gauge extension into this outlet. On the other end of the "extension cord" is a board with a number of 110/220 outlets as well as an outlet for my arc welder. All my tool capable of 110-220 snap on quicker and bog less under load than they did with their original factory supplied cords going into a 110 outlet wired with 12 ga wire direct to the panel... what the electrician provided. A 1 1/2 horse motor is not going to give you what a 3 horse motor can. Give that 1 1/2 horse motor a fighting chance, though, by at least giving it all the juice it can use.
bob g.
igor wrote:

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It's been said many times before but... If you have 220 in your shop and your tools will run on either, don't waste a minute before converting all such tools to 220. Did it years ago and enjoy the advantage every day. An either or motor will do just as well on 110 if the wire is of heavy enough gauge. It virtually never is heavy enough to give equivalent performance. Spend a few minutes to get the thing running on 220 and you'll kick yourself for not having done it sooner.
bob g.
gw wrote:

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