So go stain and poly him. That'll fix his ass. I said Ass! ;~)
-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine
(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )
Thanks, I think I can put that information to use (I was thinking of adding a drawer or two to my new woodbench). For now, I need to go play with drywall compound--I seem to resist it, despite how much fun it is. ; )
The group does tend toward anal :)
Got a wet shop vac and a P100 respirator? Water really helps trap the nasty, superfine dust.
-- When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary. -- Thomas Paine
(comparing Paine to the current CONgress )
I'm glad I sprung for the *vacuum* drywall sander! I've had better luck with shop vac "bags", than water, though I tried water first.
Based on reading another post, I am going to upgrade my shop vac filter to one of the better/best green ones (~$30, at Sears) for this task. I wear an N95 rated dust mask for this and many other tasks.
After doing some other yardwork today, I decided to postpone my drywall work until the conditions are more humane--perhaps after dark.
Here is a related question I had: Is the shop vac filter only there to filter the air it outputs for the sake of the user, or does it protect the unit (in any way)? For instance, if I'm vacuuming wet leaves (the eave troughs), is there any benefit to using a filter?
Bill
Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The secondary filter will still be quite clean.
Generally if the filter gets dirty quickly the filter is there to protect the motor and then you, somewhat. Better vacs will draw the debris directly into a filter bag and will have a secondary filter that typically stays very very clean. These type typically do not loose suction until the filter bag is 98 % full and ready to be tossed. The secondary filter will still be quite clean.
Mine is a Craftsman.
I'm sure it's not as quiet as a Festool, but if it broke I would replace it with the same model. Maybe I'll try hooking it to a TS when I get one! : )
Bill
VDS, good show!
I bought a Cleanstream from an eBay vendor who had it stored in a ghastly, stinking storeroom. It reeks every time I use it, but it filters well.
I decided that since I was going to protect my lungs, I'd go the extra dollar for the 100% filters. I reuse the hell out of 'em, anyway, so I get my money's worth. My lungs thank me.
Grok that.
Yes, usually, the filter protects the motor a bit, too. Flow is often through the hose, into the cannister, then out through the motor, cooling it as it goes. Follow the mfgr's suggestions, though. Some will eat (cheaper) filters if they get wet.
Well, I got my CNC router up and running today. After tracking down some grounding problems, I got it up. Motion in all three axes. I had to figure out how to reverse the A axis motor since it works slaved to the X. The gantry started to move both ways at once the first time. Now I have to figure out how to configure the limit switches and home switches, and then I'm up and running! Finally. Next, I need to learn how to run Mach3, BobCAD, and BobART Pro.
-- Another belief of mine: that everyone else my age is an adult, whereas I am merely in disguise. -- Margaret Atwood
Let me say another way, typically if the vac filter is directly exposed to the debris it is intended to protect the motor first, you second. The secondary filters in addition to the debris going straight into the collection bag typically are designed to protect you.
You probably will not be satisfied with a shop vac, any brand, connected to a TS. You really need the volume that a DC offers. TS's have numerous air paths which pretty much make a shop vac ineffective.
No secondary filters here.
Okay. Thank you for making me aware of that. I wasn't sure.
You should have gotten the water unit. Its a bucket that the vac hooks to. Then it goes to a sanding pad. The drywall drops to the bucket (filled with water) and prevents the filter from clogging.
I have one and after listening to the wife really complain about the dust, went out and got the better unit with a really long hose.
So glad I did. I have loaned it out about a dozen times and everyone has the same reaction.... WOW!!!!
Using a vacuum bag inside the shop vac, the filter doesn't clog at all. The directions for the sander suggested, as an alternative to a vacuum bag, to put a few inches of water inside the shop vac. I found that DID result in a clogged filter. My reaction to the way mine works is still the same as yours: WOW!
My only further comment is the cost is higher than the price of the sander ($45), because I still had to buy a 1 1/4" hose ($15), adapter ($4), and bags (2 for $17). Yes, I keep track of my purchases on a spreadsheet! ;) You'd still be buying sanding screens whether doing with a vacuum sander or not. I think it's still a good value, I'm just providing information. In all fairness, this is the "bottom end" of such sanders, it is getting the job done, and I am impressed with the results--the connection of the hose to the sander not so much (but it's nothing I can't maintain with duct tape).
Reminding me of the "Best bang for 10 bucks" thread, the profit margin the sanding unit above must be darn impressive!
Bill
Putting water in the vac is not the same as what I have. Glad that the bag works well. I am surprised.
Just for info:
The unit that I have is the
If you view the manual you can see how the hosing works inside the bucket. so the dust is placed in the water, not in the air like your vac .. The 20 foot hose was great.. glad I went for the longer hose.
I sanded very lightly with 600 grit following the 2nd coat (and several days), and applied the 3rd coat. I noticed a blemish (1" by 1/4") created either by the blue nitrile gloves or by the sand paper. It is still visible following the 4th coat which I applied without sanding first.
My thinking is that I should give it 24 hours or more to set, and then go back to the blemish with the 600 grit (I have up to 2000 grit). Is this the right strategy, or is this likely to just make the blemish bigger?
Thanks, Bill
Define blemish.
No..
600 is for wet sanding a final finish.2000 is way overkill.. used for the glossiest of finishes (especially when I was building model airplanes)... and great for tool edging.
If you have a blemish what kind?
if it is a fish eye or rough patch, sand with 220 or 320 to knock it down and put a new layer on after cleaning. If it is deep, you will need to use 180 to 220 to take it down a layer or 2.. then reapply your finish...
BTW you can reduce fish eyes with a fish eye killer. I got mine from an auto paint shop years ago. Now we have no auto paint supply shops where I live now. You can probably get some at a good paint store.
I think mine was Raja fish eye killer. I can't read the label anymore.
1 drop per pint - quart (already thinned) that's all thats required.. it'll last you a long time.
I took 2 pictures to describe "blemish" and put them on my web page:
Can you suggest to me the best way to pretty-her back up?
Bill
Note: this concludes today's rocket science lesson.
I was definitely impressed with how a mere few seconds with 1200-grit removed the small "crater". More finish has been applied! : )
Bill
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