It has been my finding that T-111 eventually needs to be replaced. I would nail or screw it only. It would be tough to replace if you glue it also. Also I would cut in to the studs and mount 1x4's diagonally from sole to top plate to add rigidity to the structure. IMHO this type siding is for appearance and not to add support to the structure.
Hello, What is the best way to nail up t-111 siding to a shed wall? I was going to first put some construction glue on the studs, then nail the siding in the grooves with ring shank nails (stainless if I can find them). I know this sounds like a very basic question, but it is my first time doing this. Thanks.
I know this is picking nits but, if it matters to you, it's actually spelled T1-11. :)
(Btw, assuming you will paint or otherwise protect your siding, stainless is overkill. Galvies are fine for this application.)
Michael Baglio
Why would properly T-111 need replacing? It's just plywood with groves cut in it.
Install the siding to maintain a decent distance from the ground (6" minimum). When you nail it, you can use ring shanked nail if you want (can't hurt) , but I simply used 2" common nails in a nail gun. 6" spacing around the perimeter, 12" in the field (middle of the sheet). Once installed, seal the joints with a good latex caulk (DAP Alex Plus) and paint, making SURE to paint inside the grooves to seal it. Spraying works best, followed with a brush while the sprayed paint is still wet.
T-111 is cheap siding, but if installed correctly, will give you outdoor siding with a "look", protection from the weather and structural rigidity as well. If it didn;t, it wouldn't be used on so many homes.
One think to think about is,.... if you think you're going to get tired of the look of the stuff, install it so that you can go over top of it later with a lapped siding or ????.
Good luck Rob
Yeah. But I have replaced a lot of the stuff on several homes due to home owners not keeping it properly painted and termites. This is particularily bad in humid climates and especially if shaded by bushes.
That said, many sheds often do not get much attention after being built.
I agree. I would like to to t&g cedar, but I am having a tough time finding it up here in RI.
particularily
... besides being butt ugly.
Say Swingman, I am probably going to get a job to build a table that will have a 3" thick by 42" square table top. Hard Maple, 3/4" strips glued up to make the width. Basically long grain butcher block style. Do you know of any one with a large drum sander to sand that monster?
Leon
That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for sheeting. There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your point about not using construction adhesive.
Yes it is, but you're cruel Swingman. The OP said he was a newbie and there you go telling him his dream finish is butt ugly.
Well, let's be fair - at least he's not staining cherry or something.
I did not say it was not suitable for "sheathing". I said that it eventually needs to be replaced. Sooner than later if not properly cared for.
There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
Yes it will add rigidity but I would much rather depend on the 1x4" running diagonally and inset into the studs. Much of the T1-11 and similar panels that I have replaced will pull off of the house with out removing the nails. Water penetrates at the nail holes and the wood rots. Going back to the adhesive, it is customary to wrap the out side stud walls with a water proof material such a tar paper to insure that water does not get into the building through joints and seams. Gluing as you and I both agree would require that shield be left out of the equation.
Check out this website:
My intent was always to apply clapboard over it, as time and funds allowed, and that's what happened, eventually.
I used construction adhesive on the studs and nailed with eight penny galvanized air nails on six inch centers in the field and four inch on the perimeter.
I also ran a bead of architectural sealant in the laps before applying the overlapping piece.
It is important to get a good coat of paint on quickly, as the material will degrade fast if not properly coated. You will need a heavy nap roller skin and T1-11 soaks up about twice as much paint as what the usual coatings charts show for wood siding. I primed and first coated my sheets before applying them - it's a lot easier to do when the sheets are laying flat on the sawhorses. The degrade shows up in the form of buckling and delamination, so it's worth taking seriously. Push paint into the top and bottom edges because these are prime spots for the beginnings of delamination. Get a small roller to push paint into the reverse batten areas and then backdrag with a brush.
If you will have sections that are more than eight feet high, you'll need to get the appropriate flashing pieces for the joints.
Make sure to flash the bottoms with drip edge style flashing and let about a 1/4" to 1/2" space between the top of the flashing and the bottom of the T1-11. It's worth running 15 or 30 pound felt behind that flashing, as this is a common point of water intrusion.
The T1-11 sat that way for about twelve years before I got around to the clapboard - still looked pretty good.
Regards, Tom.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.) tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
I can't imagine why either. Don't know why it is called T1-11 either since the stuff I have has 1.5 inch groves not 1 inch every 12 inches. If it had 1 inch grooves then the designation would make sense. The stuff has been on my shed for nearly 30 years, stained not painted. In a rainy climate I would much prefer paint. I used galvanized nails and nailed through the thickest part not in the groove.
Most houses rely on the sheathing (or at least plywood pannels in the corners) for part of the structural rigidity. I don't see why you wouldn't do the same with a shed and T1-11 will serve quite well. Corner bracing with 45 degree pieces may be common some places but not where I live. Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor costs and doesn't decrease the insulating area thickness.
Rob Stokes wrote:
I've used it in a humid climate(central Texas) and regretted it even though I sealed it well and nailed the heck out of it. It waffled in between the nailed courses(studs 16 inches on center). I wound up going over it with horizontal factory primed hardboard and had no trouble with that as of 5 years later.
RonT
Yeah but when used that way, it is protected from the elements. A home with a plywood exterior does not hold up as well as those with non wood exteriors.
I don't see why you
There is not a problem with using T1-11 for the exterior as long as you realize that in a humid climate it will require more maintence than brick or fiber cement siding.
Slapping up a 4 x 8 plywood sheet is cheaper in labor
In Houston TX, one of the cheapest places to buy a new house, the 45 bracing is quite common. 20 to 30 years ago you could hardly buy a new home in Houston with out it having T1-11. Now all the builders are switching to Hardy plank and board. In Houston, you will seldom find a house built 15 or more years ago that has T1-11 that is still in good shape. For a few dollars more the builders are using Hardi plank and board and not having to worry about what the house is going to look like in a few years.
That's good to know, as I'm hanging 4000 sq. ft. of Hardi-Plank as we speak- replacing that "fine" GP hardboard lap siding- cheap bastards!
Greg G.
Well of course it takes more maintenance that brick, and stone, and concrete, and......... Nobody is arguing that T1-11 is as good as brick.
Hope you realize that you just made a good argument for not buying a house in Houston. OTOH, I wouldn't live in Houston if the house was free!
Have you checked into availability of Hardiplank, or the other cement board products? Reasonably attractive as long as it's kept painted (more than other pseudo-wood products), and impervious to bugs or rot. It's not impervious to kids with balls, but it's far tougher than masonite type products.
See
Kevin
Sorry Leon, I don't ... wish I did. If you do find someone let me know if you will.
Thanks.
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