Baseboard Advice/Suggestions

[CP]

Hello Everyone,

I removed the carpeting for my house and had the original (white oak) wood floors refinished.

I also removed the baseboards and trashed them.

I'm looking for some advice on replacing the baseboards.

Anybody with a good eye for this kind of thing I would appreciate your input.

I am sure I have left out info that would be helpful so let me know and I'll provide it.

Thanks

CP

[bridger]

1) there really are no rules, other than whatever swmbo says is final.

2) as far as materials, white oak is an obvious one, if you want to match your floors. but you might prefer contrasting with them, which you could do with a different species or with stain. for even more contrast you could use paint. see 1).

3) what style of molding to use is dependent on the style of the house, the tastes of swmbo and your budget.

[loutent]

Hi CP,

I have just finished installing some baseboard in our FR. It originally had 2.5 inch (builder) stuff that just did not look right - too small etc.

After almost 20 years, I got around to ripping all that crap out. After some study, I settled on a simple solution that we are very pleased with. I found Jay Silber's book "Decorating with Architectural Trimwork" very worthwhile (Amazon).

First, ran 1 x 6 poplar along the walls, then a simple base cap on top of that. Total height is about 7 inches. We painted ours, but you could use oak (say) and stain if you wanted that look. Our floors are stained oak.

The nice thing is that the 1x6 does not have to follow the wall exactly. since the base cap will contour nicely. Need to caulk between the two.and add shoe moulding.

Got everything at HD.

Downside: SWMBO wants it throughout the house. Upside: Need more tools.... :-)

Lou

[Mike O.]

Make sure the new base is tall enough to cover up the paint line left when removing the old base.

Mike O.

[Swingman]

Don't forget the shoe molding at the bottom of the baseboard. Regardless of how you finish the baseboard, the shoe molding is generally the same wood as, and stained like, the floors.

[B a r r y]

I typically use a 1x6 s4s board, 3/4" shoe, and some sort of 5/8" x

1-7/8" base. The shoe molding goes against the floor and bottom face of the the 1x6, and the base sits on top of the 1x6, against the wall. Cope all inside corners, miter the outside corners. The style of the shoe will vary depending on the size and style of the room, with a simpler version for a Mission or Craftsman decor, and more ornate stuff for a Victorian style. The most ornate styles may even use a 4th part between the s4s and shoe.

The shoe is flexible enough to cover any gaps between the floor and s4s, the base will conform to undulations in the wallboard or plaster. 1x6 boards typically aren't that flexible.

Choice of wood depends on the rest of the room. If the molding is to be painted, I prefer #1 common maple or birch over pine, as baseboards can live a tough life vs vacuums, etc...

Of course, none of this will look right if the rest of the room is southwestern decor. Check your local library for home decorating, architecture, or design books and magazines. They probably won't be in the woodworking section. You're looking for photos of completed styles from which to draw ideas. I've even gotten some decent ideas from fashion catalogs sent to my wife. Some of the catalogs are photographed in interesting locations.

Last thought: If you want to do truly high-end looking work, the materials probably won't be at the BORGs. Look for local mills.

Barry

[Mr Peterson]

CP,

I recently completely renovated a bathroom (which started as a simple repainting, but, well, you know how these things go)...

Anyway, one thing I did was reinstall some drywall which wasn't installed properly when the house was built. At the same time I also fixed some " wavy" drywall by applying multiple, very thin coats of drywall compound at the base to about 7"-10" above the floor, then use a straight piece of base to screed it perfectly flat.

After it was sanded and painted, I was able to install the base without any gaps or unsightly gobs of caulking.

-Matt

[Geo]

I am currently in the process of doing the exact same thing. As far as what you use whether it't stained, unstained, painted, etc. depends on your (wife's) tastes, how the home is decorated, etc. What ever you use I would encourage using the taller baseboard. I replaced our crappy 3 inch or whatever it was with 5 3/4". Looks so much better than the other stuff.

Geo "I wanted to be a carpenter, but just couldn't cope".

[Swingman]

Forgot to mention that the current (11/05) issue of Fine Homebuilding (Taunton, same folks who put out Fine Woodworking) has an excellent article on everything you would want to know about installing baseboard.

I would highly recommend that the OP track down a copy at a local newstand as it should still be available.

[CP]

Thanks you, Thanks you! I never dreamed I get these great resonses. SWMBO is new to me but with a lot of help I figured it out. I now call her swm(i)bo and she GETS pissed. God I loved married life. Thanks again.

[Ba r r y]

And attached to the baseboard, but NOT the floor. The flooring needs to move underneath the shoe.

Although in my parts, the shoe is typically stained / painted to match the base rather than the floor. Probably a regional style thing.

Barry

[Swingman]

Unless, of course, it is in a kitchen with hardwood floors (a BIG thing in high $ homes at the moment in this area) and you have "toe kick" drawers installed as a cabinet feature ... then the floor guys will find a way to nail it to the floor. :(

[Ba r r y]

Now _that's_ funny!

"Honey, I thought these drawers were supposed to be real, not just faces."