bandsaw upgrade question

I just purchased a 14" bs, and would like input on how to improve performance in terms of blade, blocks, fence, etc. This is a lower end saw, so my thought is that I could make it a better saw if I used better fittings....
Initial use is to resaw some 8/4 red oak, but after that it would be to rough cut joints, make circular cuts, etc. My only other saw is a RAS, so the bandsaw will get more use than typical...
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Best bang for the buck is a good blade. You'll want more than one (1/8" for scroll work, 1/4" for general use, and 1/2" or 3/4" for resawing would be a good start). Both the Timberwolf from Suffolk and the Wood Slicer from Highland Hardware (see URLs below) have excellent reputations. I've got an assortment of Timberwolfs and love them. A set of cool blocks is worthwhile at another $15 or so.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com
I personally wouldn't bother with a fancy fence for a bandsaw. Most of my ripping I do on the table saw. When I need a fence on the bandsaw, I just use a piece of jointed 2x4 clamped to the table. If your plan is to use your bandsaw for ripping a lot, a nice commercial fence might make sense for you.
In any case, most commercial bandsaw fences aren't designed for resawing, so you may end up building your own resaw fence anyway. I've got one I made from a few pieces of scrap that works fine.
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Look for a copy of The Bandsaw Handbook by Mark Duginske. It's full of tips for aligning and tuning the saw, selecting the proper blade for the job, merits of different kinds of guide blocks, etc. It's fairly cheap and well worth the money.
wrote:

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Get that kickass bandsaw book by dunsigke? I forget how to spell his name, but it totally kicks ass, more bandsaw knowledge than anyone can possibly absorb. Most excellent book. It's only about $20. That's a small price to pay in order to kick ass with your bandsaw.
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time to read and re-read the chapter on setting up the saw. Good alignment, adjustment of the guides, and properly tensioned blade makes the big difference.
Mark Duginske talks abut drift and setting up the fence to compensate for it. Scott Phillips says the right blade (Timberwolf), properly tensioned, will not have drift. Then he proceeded to cut off a 1/16" slice of wood with a fence set parallel to the blade.
Be sure the blades rides the tire right and you are on your way. -- Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
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Start by using a 1/2" 3 tooth blade.
--
Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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Hi,
As the other poster suggested, the Timberline blades from Suffolk are very nice. A decent blade can make all the difference, and these blades are relatively inexpensive (if I remember right, they were under $25 per blade).
The other thing that is very useful is to adjust the saw so that your blade tension is optimum (higher than you might expect), make sure the blade is centered on the wheels, and make sure that both the top and bottom guide bearings are adjusted according to the manual. Mark Duginske has a good book ("The Band Saw Handbook") that you could probably get from the public library.
I use a homemade resaw fence, which works well for me.
Cheers, Nate

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You remember right - I just bought a 1/4" PC, 1/2" PC and 3/4" AS-S (all 93 1/2") from Suffolk for $51 total.
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