Hey UA. Yes, I've had it installed for over a year and a half, and it
hasn't moved a bit, tho I must admit that when I first installed it I
watched it like a hawk to be sure it wasn't going to come loose and end
up wrecking up the saw. In answer to Dan Valleskey's question, It
works great. Never had to clean the tire.
Vince, thanks much. I dropped by Harbor Freight, pickup up the same magnet
you're using for about 3 bucks, and have some old un-used dentist freebee
brush in it now. Used a grinding wheel to quickly get it to the right
shape. Looks pretty good. Can't really see it coming loose, but time will
Care to elaborate? (And no, I'm not looking to pick a fight. This
sounds genuinely interesting.)
"Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells
'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets
fly with a club.
-- John W. Cambell Jr.
On Mon, 03 Jan 2005 23:16:31 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@TAKEOUTmindspring.com wrote:
I hope I'm not mistating anything:
1. The author uses the band saw with a 1/2 inch 3 tpi skip tooth
blade for "just about " "everything"
2. 1/2 HP is more than enough for "big resawing tasks" on a 14"
saw with a 1/2" 3 tpi blade; anything more than that "is
overkill." In general, a 1/3 HP motor is enough otherwise.
3. Undertension the blade.
4. Set the fence once and leave it alone. Align the blade
5. Use metal blocks with a clearance of .001 rather than the
I have got to find a copy of that article. After #1, the statements are not
accurate without a lot of qualifiers, IMO. Actually, a 1/2" blade is not good
for "just about" everything, either. I tried cutting some fairly modest curves
on my machine with a 1/2" the other day. Pfui. #2, might be true in ideal
conditions. Might not, too, with jarrah and ipe and hickory and hard maple.
Undertensioning *some* blades works. With others, you get a barrel cut.
For #4, I'm still looking for a blade adjustment knob on my bandsaw. In oher
words, WTF does this MEAN?
Block clearance: maybe. Some times. Some times not.
"A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to
the ground." H. L. Mencken
On 04 Jan 2005 09:53:41 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Charlie Self)
It's "Five Tips for Better Bandsawing" by Michael Fortune
on page 66 of the December 2004 issue of Fine Woodworking.
He does have some. There are probably other implicit ones
that I didn't pick up on because I haven't used a band saw in
40 years. (I'm not arguing that he is right, by the way).
I'll quote a bit:
" Align the blade to eliminate drift
When I bought my bandsaw in 1974, I set
the fence parallel to the miter gauge slot
in the table and I haven't had to adjust it
since. The reason is that I use the tracking
adjustment on the upper bandsaw wheel
to align the blade (see drawings on the
facing page). A nightmare of fence adjust-
ments ensues if each new blade is allowed
to track differently.
Simply be keeping the centerline of the
blade (regardless of width) in line with the
centerline of the upper wheel, I am able to
keep the blade aligned correctly at the
There's more on this.
That's a good one. Static charges can only build-up on surfaces that have
no means of dissipating the charge. Unless one's shop has wiring "issues",
the bandsaw is grounded through the plug.
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