Bandsaw Tensioning

I have the Grizzly G0555 bandsaw and I'm trying to tension a 1/2" timberwolf blade. It seems that no matter how high I crank the tension, the blade still flutters a little bit. Is this OK? It seems like it should run perfectly straight, but I can't seem to get it.
Has anyone else seen this, or is there more that I can do?
Thanks, Tom
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Tom,
I also have the G0555 and I swear that when I initially looked at the web page (drooling after it week by week until I purchased it) that it initially quoted the blade size to be 92 1/2". Now it says 93 1/2". I went to my local Woodcraft to buy a Timberwolf 93 1/2" blade and it was too big. No matter how I cranked the tension down the blade didn't even sit against the wheel. I measured the blade that came with my BS against the one I purchased and sure enough it was 92 1/2" long. So I took the new one back and ordered 2 custom lengths (1/4"and 1/2") from Suffolk Machinery directly and they fit. I will admit that the 1/2" (I haven't tried the 1/4" yet) was pretty tight just trying to get it on the wheels -- not sure if that's because the blade is stiff anyway due to it's thickness or it might have been made a shy short (maybe 92 1/4" or 92 3/8"). I might request a 92 3/4" next time.
Anyway, once installed it worked like a charm (I love that saw -- what a performer!!).
Good Luck, Mike

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In rec.woodworking

I hope you realize that you can loosen the large donut on the tension shaft and adjust it up or down to fit the blade? I had to do this after installing my riser kit. I'll bet you could have made it work.
To the main question, I have no trouble tensioning a 1/2" blade and even tensioned a .032 3/4" blade but it was nearly bottomed out. I do plan on getting a heavier spring.
I wonder if the original poster understands what flutter looks like. Have the blade well illuminated and it will be fluttering a blurry fat black line. As you tighten, this line will thin and then noticeably stop and become like a pencil line. Now when the weld goes by, you're going to see that. That is not what they are talking about. It took me a while to get this.
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Bruce and everyone,
The weld might be part of the problem.
My biggest issue is not knowing exactly what to look for. I read a bunch of articles, but never really saw it. I think as I was working with the saw tonight I finally got it tensioned correctly.
I do think that the weld may have been throwing me off as well. As it goes by my line of sight, it might look a bit look a bit like flutter.
Thanks for your input, Tom
wrote:

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Tom -
The first thing I did, at the advice of the wreck, was to buy a new spring from Iturra Designs ( around $15 ). Have no problems since. I'm using the 105" blades with the riser kit. I have a 3/4" blade and I'll admit that one is a bear to tension but since I don't need to use it very often it's not a problem. Don't have it handy but do a google search on Iturra designs - call them and ask for a catalog - in addition to some fine stuff for bandsaws, there is a lot of great info on tensioning, maintaining, etc.
HTH,
Vic

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Vic,
Is it difficult to put the new spring in? It seems like you need to move the tensioning rod and then replace it. Is this pretty intuitive?
Thanks, Tom

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Tom Wojeck wrote:

I don't know about hte Grizzly, but on the Jet it is a 5 minute job. While you are looking at replacing the spring, consider getting a Quick Crank also. Makes tensioning easier and faster that trying to turn the little know on most saws. I paid about $30 for it and I'm happy to h ave it. Makes taking tension off for periods of non-use easy. I take off five turn so when I want to use the saw again a week later, five turn puts me right back where I was fo rthat blade. -- Ed snipped-for-privacy@snet.net http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
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Typical of MOST cheap bandsaws, they cannot pruduce a lot of tension
Get the Ittura Design extra strength spring so you can properly tension your blade
John
On 17 Feb 2004 09:07:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Tom Wojeck) wrote:

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I use the King Koil aftermarket spring from Woodcraft. Does anyone have an opinion on which might be better, the Iturra Designs or the King Koil?
Kevin B.

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Tom,
After heading the great advice everyone else has given (correct blade, new spring (perhaps), etc. you might want to try my method of tensioning the blade. Flutter isn't the most exact way to tension, as you experienced. Some people pluck the blade and listen for a musical "note". Well, some people are musically inclined and some are just tone deaf. What I do instead is listen for a certain "quality" while plucking the blade and tensioning. First, I set back the guide blocks. As I tension the blade it goes from a sort of loose "twang" to a nice tight "ping". When it reaches this point I give the tension knob a quarter to half turn and that's it. Try this and see if it works for you. In the beginning you may have to tighten and loosen the blade to distinguish the transition from loose "twang" to a nice tight "ping", but once you get the hang of it it's simple and fast.
Hope this helps,
Layne
On 17 Feb 2004 09:07:51 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net (Tom Wojeck) wrote:

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