I'm just getting into resawing with a bandsaw (Delta 14" with riser). So far,
I've used a shop-made, flat-faced fence. It seems to work OK, once its set up
correctly. I see commercial bandsaw fences that offer a resaw attachment, a
device with a curved face that attaches to a flat-faced fence. The wood
contacts this attachment only at one point. I gather that point would be
aligned with the front of the blade. I have not tried this type of resaw fence
yet. Should I? What advantages does it offer over the flat fence?
artg AT eclipse (remove this) DOT net
Board on its edge, square to the blade, at the proper distance. Bullnose on
the edge toward the blade has its closest approach to the blade at the
bottom of the gullets.
Any standard book on bandsaws will have pivot blocks or boards demonstrated.
That is almost exactly what it is, Bill, just with a point rather than a
radius to contact the wood to be resawn.
The pivot board being this---->
and the other type of fence is this-----)
If you've a flat, square (to the board face) edge to rest the board on,
you don't need a fence at all. My old (really old) craftsman 16"
resaws just fine with a line drawn where I want to resaw-- I go pretty
slowly though. Just takes a good eye & a steady hand. BTW, I'm using
a 1/2" 4tpi blade. I would get straighter cuts with a 3/4" or 1"
blade its just that the one I have isn't worn out yet & my wife says
I'm just cheap-- I like to think of it as thrifty.
I'd pass on the pivot or curved fence. If you adjust your fence to
compensate for blade drift and your saw is setup property, you will have no
trouble making a tall flat fence suitable for resawing.
I use a 6" tall flat fence, works perfectly. BTW, in my experience, a
quality blade has little or no drift.
I find that once I get the regular straight fence at the proper angle
(a few degrees off parallel with the blade) it works well for cutting a
straight line. If your bandsaw came with a fence, or if you bought one
specifically for a bandsaw, or if you use a straight piece of leftover
lumber, it should be adjustable a few degrees either way.
I highly recommend a bandsaw book like "The Bandsaw Book" by Duginske -
lots of helpful background info and tips.
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