Bandsaw question

Hello,
I recently bought the Bridgewood 17" bandsaw and I'm concerned about the upper wheel. I put a dial gauge on the front edge of the wheel and, as I rotate the wheel, there is a variance of .005 from the "top" of the wheel to a point at the 15 minute mark. The bottom of the wheel returns the gauge to 0. The 45 minute mark is off by about .002. The wheel seems to be balanced since when I spin it never returns to the same spot. Is this a big enough problem that Wilke should replace the top wheel. The bottom wheel has a variance of about .002 in a couple of spots but that's not nearly as bad.
The saw seems to cut okay but all I've tried is the stock blade. I have a bit of a gripe there as well. When I ordered the saw, the web site said the blade length was 132". So I could get cutting right away, I ordered a few new blades (including the woodslicer). Now, none of the blades fit the saw, they are all too loose. I pulled off the stock blade and measured it at 131-1/2. Even then the tension wheel is cranked almost all the way to get the blade tight. So I took my brand new blades into the shop to have an inch removed from each. Still haven't cut with 'em yet. Oh well, all good thing come to those that ..... crap I want to cut some wood.......
Please let me know what I should do (if anything) about that upper wheel.
Thanks,
Woody
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I think you'd be happier if you put the gauge away. I have no idea if my wheels are off less or more than that. What counts is the blade going through the guides where the cutting takes place.. I'd be more concerned that a replacement would not be as good as what you have now. Ed
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<snip report of .005 runout>

I'll have to second Ed's recommendation.
First consideration is whether or not the saw cuts acceptably well. And the blade has a HUGE influence on that.
If you are getting acceptable cutting performance, go with it an don't look back. If you are getting unacceptable cutting performance, first try a "premium" blade. If you still get unacceptable performance, I think you'll find something other than the runout is the problem.
Actually, .005" on a 8.5" radius sounds pretty darn good to me.
Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA
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wrote:

I gotta agree. 5/1000th" isn't much to make a difference on a BS I think. I can visibly see runout on my Delta upper wheel, but with a Timberwolf it cuts straight. Much more is involved with your BS's performance besides .005" runout on your upper wheel. Wheels co-planar? Tires okay/not dirty? Blade teeth set correctly? Etc.
Layne
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On Fri, 14 May 2004 02:50:03 GMT, "woodydelsur"

if anything, true up the rubber tire when you put the crown in.
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