Maybe. And you don't know how much negative tilt you can get from the
tracking adjustment. My Delta is also close, and I didn't bother to shim for
no-load coplanar. Frankly, I don't see any real benefit, and a reasonable
possibility I won't have enough tracking adjustment if it flexes beyond
coplanar under tension.
If the blade is tracking properly, leave it alone.
Stop reading so much.
Do what you think is reasonable maintenance and
leave the "fine tuning to death" to the other folks.
If it cuts reasonably straight, don't do anything
else to the machine.
Spend your money on good blades.
It's not at all vital unless your wheels have flat surfaces. If the
wheels are crowned, and the blade tracks properly, it's a good as
you're going to get it. If the wheels have flat surfaces, parallel is
necessary, but coplanar is necessary only if the blade has to track at
a specific location on the wheel. My metal cutting bandsaw has flat,
hard surfaced wheels so the blade tracks with the teeth just proud of
the wheel edge to avoid disturbing the blade's set. Parallel is needed
for the blade to stay on the wheels, co-planar is needed so the blade
tracks at the proper location. That's not the case with a crowned,
Has no effect on drift. That is totally dependent on the blade
condition; tension, set, sharpness, guide locations, etc.
If it's so far out of plane that the blade won't ride on both wheels
at the same time, then it's too far out of plane. If the blade tracks
properly, you're fine.
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