Here's where some confusion comes in. If you've never used a chainsaw, I
guess it's understandable. All chainsaws do not have a top handle.
Conventional design is for a rear handle and a left side handle. Your left
hand grabs the top of the handle, but it protrudes out of the left side and
gives control over the saw body. What they don't have is a top handle.
Top handle saws move the rear mounted right hand position up to the top
center of the saw - BUT, the left hand remains as in the case of the
conventional design. No chainsaw is designed to be used one handed.
Your right hand does not control kick back. Your left hand does. It's the
hand that exerts force downward. The right hand is not supposed to rock or
pivot against the tree dogs as a lot of people do. You certainly can do
that, but the saw is designed to cut straight down through a log. Pivoting
the saw is an indication of a dull chain or a novice user. Kick back occurs
one way and one way only. The very front of the bar has to come in contact
with something. The tip of it. Your left hand is what resists that
kickback should it occur. Pivoting the right hand can produce kickback if
the bar is burried in the tree, which is common with trees that are larger
in diameter than the saw bar. Pivot the bar past 90 degrees and you hit the
point where the tip of the bar is the contact point. Guaranteed kickback.
Not probably - guaranteed.
This is patently untrue.
Equally untrue. That would be the worst time for an ill managed saw. But
then again, these are not a design that is inherantly ill managed.
This is pure bull. The saw is always going to kick back in a consistent
direction. Unless you're a contortionist and a very strong one at that,
you'll not be able to get the saw in a position so that kickback is not
going to bring that saw directly back to you. Skill and practice have
absolutely nothing to do with it. Nobody learns how to control kickback and
put it to some useful purpose. Kickback is something that is avoided at all
costs. The only safe way to use a chainsaw is such that you are always in
the direct path of kickback, so you make it a practice to avoid kickback.
The right hand is always just a pivot in that you use it to keep the saw
level. The saw does not look to be any more dangerous than a conventional
design and in fact appears that it could be an advantageous design for some
I don't understand Andy. From the picture (I looked at the MS200T) it
certainly looks like there is a left hand grip wrapping down the left side
of the saw. The chain brake - unless there's something new that is not even
mentioned in the product description is not operated by the operator of the
saw. It's an automatic function if the chain breaks and starts to fly back
toward the operator. Unless you know something that is not highlighted in
the product brief on the web site, there are no brake controls. Clue me in?
Brake's the same place, though I also wonder what that extra red toggle up
forward might be. Since the chain brake is designed to bring the chain to a
halt in the event of a kickback, it's located perpendicular to the kickback
vector and in front of the leading part of the operator.
The thing's a close-quarter saw, not a one-hand saw. Imagine the attorney
fees if they were to call it such?
You learned someplace else, I guess.
Rocking the saw, actually tilting the nose up or down alternately, is a
tactic to cope with large logs so that the chain speed can be kept at or
near full. By tilting, less wood is in contact, chips are more easily
ejected, and the whole operation's safer.
The reason the handle mounts around left is for felling.
You'd probably have a cow watching a good woodsman plunge a veneer log to
prevent heart pull.
I'll stack our UP cutters with the best. The guy who taught me to fell and
cut took a Maple and a polar with a pickup jammed between them down one
night without a twig falling on the two pinned occupants or we two medics.
Good friend in more ways than one! The vehicle moved more from the jaws
than the trees.
Sorry, go back to your geometry book. Any secant is shorter than the
diameter. And I said "tilt."
How do you force a saw without pushing? Aren't you presuming?
I'm sure of that. We have some of the best in the Adirondacks also - well,
we used to. I don't doubt for a minute what you say about this fellow, but
I'd invite you to show him my comments and ask him if he takes exception
Me - presume???? Banish the thought. 99% of the people who tilt a saw do
not lift either the front or the back while they tilt the saw in order to
lift part of the chain out of the wood. They rock the saw against the dogs
and pry the saw. That results in full chain contact all the time. If you
did lift, you're cutting less wood - takes more time to cut. Keep your
chain sharp and cut straight through and that's the fastest way as well as
the way that strains the saw the least. Neither one of us probably has the
luxurey of getting out and watching the loggers these days, but watch the
logger games on TV. When they cut the butts cuts for time, look at those
saws - straight down through and straight up through the wood. If your saw
needs lifting to keep the rpm's up it's underpowered, the chain is dull, or
you're horsing the saw way too much.
Under powered? THAT we can agree on. I'm using a Farm boss with a 20"
Oregon, and 20" of maple is more than I should be working. Makes nice
bowls, though. Especially if you tilt the saw when ripping for shaving
I get to go to the woods with cruisers, piececutters, and even my former
ambulance partner's husband, who has a few million in automatic harvesting
equipment to play with.
Sometimes I get to go to the woods to pick up those idiots who file the
depth gages off their chains so they can cut faster.
034 here with an 18 inch bar. I had a an 040-something with a 22 inch bar
which was way overkill. Got rid of it and got the 034. When I was putting
up 22 cords of wood a year it was a great saw. Now I use it for smaller
work and I wish I had one of those 020-something saws. The amount of tree
that I get into these days that really requires an 034 just isn't that much.
But... it's been a good saw and I'll keep it forever, I'm sure.
Another point in common. I was a Cardiac/Trauma Medic for 12 years. Both
vol and paid.
Ummmmm.... errrrrrrr.... I have to admit I've done that before. Cutting
down the rakers makes for a very fast cut, but man oh man, hang on to that
saw. I actually did it because the chippers had been filed away enough that
the rakers were keeping them from cutting. Smart people go buy a new chain
at that point, but I just had to get all the mileage I could out of my
chain. Never really had a problem besides having to develop a much tighter
grip on the saw, but at some point I really did get smarter and started
buying new chains when they got to that point. You actually can file them
down a bit and not cause any problems, but it just isn't worth it. Chains
aren't that expensive.
I miss my 032, but when his magneto went out, I was able to swap him and
$150 for the farm boss. I don't cut in the woods now, so the "homeowner"
grade doesn't bother me. My wood arrives every year by truck. Ten full
cords, and cash only keeps the price down, and the driver makes sure he's
got enough outsize and oddballs to keep me in turnings.
Yup. I've got the file guide that rides on top of the cutter so that you
don't over file the raker, but I didn't have it back then and since then
I've just gone to replacing my chain when it gets down that far.
I did that once, umm, summer of 1977. When the chain was sharp you could
bog down and kill the McC. when going through a pine log. Extremely fast
What's the danger? The tip was free so there was never any kickback. I had
to hold the saw up somewhat or the engine would die. The volume of sawdust
around my right foot was incredible.
Limbers often have poor body position, and sometimes even forget their leg
is on the other side of the piece as they reach, and even brace themselves
against the cut. They lose a touch of footing, and the saw's through and
As the practice here was to pay by the piece, there were a lot of shortcuts
Kickback is unaffected by filing, as far as I know. Saw doesn't kick when
it's cutting, just when it's not. Only accident more gruesome than a kick
was the result of drop starting with the throttle lock on. Like we all
haven't done it, right? Lose your grip on the rope and the bar rotates
downward around mid-tibia.
The heartwood of even an otherwise sound tree is sometimes weak. The feller
will plunge the saw into the center of the tree, sweeping the nose left and
right so that the stress of falling won't leave a couple feet of fractured
heartwood standing proud of the rest of the cut.
These folks call it stump pull.
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