Band saw riser kit

What degree of difficulty is involved with the install of a riser kit? Specifically for a Grizzly G0555.
Thank you
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On 12/29/2015 9:07 PM, Meanie wrote:
My apologies. I sometimes jump the gun and ask a question without doing some investigation.
I just viewed an install video for that unit by Grizzly personnel. They made it look easy and it appears it will be. Therefore, if anyone cares to chime in with real life experiences on anything I should be aware of, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks again.
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I had a minor issue with mine, where the bolt was larger than the sockets I had and there was no room to get a crescent wrench in to tighten. I had to make a trip to Lowe's to buy a properly sized socket.
Some report alignment issues with their kits, and there's often a pin that's supposed to keep things aligned. Sometimes they don't get that put in place properly and it causes problems.
As for difficulty, you may find a friend a useful thing to have. You can do it yourself (I did), but having someone to take the weight of the top half of the saw will help in installing the riser block.
FWIW, I've got a Jet saw and used a Powermatic riser. The Grizzly kit may be different, but there's quite a few saws out there built the same way.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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Yep, same here. It's a large bolt inside an enclosed area. You have to have the right size wrench and socket.

I had that problem. I had a difficult time trying to get the wheels coplaner. Eventually I had to drill the holes a bit wider that the pins fit into to gain just a slight margin of adjustment. Worked fine after that.
Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com
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On 12/29/2015 9:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

Same for Delta. Wound up not using the pins for alignment. Bought a combo wrench for the large size bolt.
Exact same situation as you had Puck.
--
Jeff

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On 12/29/2015 8:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

Yep. Remember clearly that it was a bit of hassle doing it alone many years ago, but eventually got it done. Been much easier with a helper.
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I've got the G0555X and the same riser kit (H3051). Just make ABSOLUTELY sure that the 'UP ARROW' that is on the riser is facing the back side (the motor side). As Puckdropper said, the task is much easier with 2 people.
After you finsh, and before you begin aligning your new 105" blade, I HIGHLY reccomend watching the following video ---> TWICE.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

Pay particular attention to the coplanar beatdown: ^_^

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU#t57

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On Wed, 30 Dec 2015 14:04:21 +0000, Spalted Walt

Gardena, Calif. I had to replace the belts on the wheels, and the new ones were slightly crowned when installed. (supposed to be) and I started off going crazy on the co-planar bit, but got frustrated, saw that video, set the wheels back to where they were, and set them up per his instructions, and voila, everything, and I do mean everything snapped into place. Now the blade runs on the center crown of the top belt, with the Teeth just off the crown so no teeth marks.
When trying to co-plane, the saw blade wouldn't fit through the guides and would have required sliding the wheels on the shaft until you found the sweet spot, if there was one. But adjusting the saw as specified if fit right into the guides, top and bottom, and all was good. No drifts.
Went to adjust the bottom and top guides to fit a new blade, and } goes the set screw. First one, then another. The brackets that held the iron blocks where all pot metal, and they started cracking on me. Finally took them out and found the pot metal was crumbling. Bad, bad, deterioration. Looked up for replacement parts, it was a no go. Then spotted the newest fancy bearing/wheel guides and did my research found out they would work, BUT! $200 bucks plus ea, for top and bottom. WHAT! I say, I can buy a whole saw for near that amount, and I just have a basically hobby shop. I searched and search, thought and thought and woke up one morning and said, I can do that!
So I went to the local metal shop, bought some square tubing, and cold rolled stock and went home and cut and brazed the pieces together using the old stuff as by guide, and then polished up the brackets and voila! after cleaning the saw mounting portion they fit better than the originals, and were very easy to adjust. Went to the local store and bought both 1/4" blocks for the blades and also bought some kind of graphite block stuff for it, used the graphite and reset the adjustments and haven't looked back. The saw now works great, swapping blades is easy to do, set up for the ride on the wheels, and set the adjustment for the blade guides.
I'm thinking, after hearing how some guys just trashed their old BS because the failed guides that I should hunt them down, make my new ones and sell the saws, making a good profit, but NAW, I retired and want to wood work. BTW, the material for the guide blocks was less than 20 bucks total, not counting the block kits.
But bottom line the co-planar thing is out, IMHO.
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On 12/30/2015 7:51 PM, OFWW wrote:

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wrote:

Credit for the link goes to spalted Walt.
I agree it is good, and easy.
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On 12/30/2015 9:04 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:

I was corrected to you as the the original link provider cause I didn't go back far enough.
Thanks. It taught me well.
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On 12/29/2015 9:07 PM, Meanie wrote:

The only really difficult part is getting the blade back on. They lose one size in width when you stretch them i.e. a 1/2" blade becomes 3/8", the 3/8" will be 1/4". The good new is what was originally a 1/4" blade will be great for tight curves.
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On 12/30/2015 1:26 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Jeez! ;~)
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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message

;~)
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LOL, Dude you must make the Hulk look like a WIMP! Hands down. LOL
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