On 12/29/2015 9:07 PM, Meanie wrote:
My apologies. I sometimes jump the gun and ask a question without doing
I just viewed an install video for that unit by Grizzly personnel. They
made it look easy and it appears it will be. Therefore, if anyone cares
to chime in with real life experiences on anything I should be aware of,
I'd appreciate it.
I had a minor issue with mine, where the bolt was larger than the
sockets I had and there was no room to get a crescent wrench in to
tighten. I had to make a trip to Lowe's to buy a properly sized socket.
Some report alignment issues with their kits, and there's often a pin
that's supposed to keep things aligned. Sometimes they don't get that
put in place properly and it causes problems.
As for difficulty, you may find a friend a useful thing to have. You
can do it yourself (I did), but having someone to take the weight of the
top half of the saw will help in installing the riser block.
FWIW, I've got a Jet saw and used a Powermatic riser. The Grizzly kit
may be different, but there's quite a few saws out there built the same
Yep, same here. It's a large bolt inside an enclosed area. You have to have
the right size wrench and socket.
I had that problem. I had a difficult time trying to get the wheels
coplaner. Eventually I had to drill the holes a bit wider that the pins fit
into to gain just a slight margin of adjustment. Worked fine after that.
I've got the G0555X and the same riser kit (H3051). Just make
ABSOLUTELY sure that the 'UP ARROW' that is on the riser is facing the
back side (the motor side). As Puckdropper said, the task is much
easier with 2 people.
After you finsh, and before you begin aligning your new 105" blade, I
HIGHLY reccomend watching the following video ---> TWICE.
Pay particular attention to the coplanar beatdown: ^_^
Gardena, Calif. I had to replace the belts on the wheels, and the new
ones were slightly crowned when installed. (supposed to be) and I
started off going crazy on the co-planar bit, but got frustrated, saw
that video, set the wheels back to where they were, and set them up
per his instructions, and voila, everything, and I do mean everything
snapped into place. Now the blade runs on the center crown of the top
belt, with the Teeth just off the crown so no teeth marks.
When trying to co-plane, the saw blade wouldn't fit through the guides
and would have required sliding the wheels on the shaft until you
found the sweet spot, if there was one. But adjusting the saw as
specified if fit right into the guides, top and bottom, and all was
good. No drifts.
Went to adjust the bottom and top guides to fit a new blade, and
} goes the set screw. First one, then another. The brackets
that held the iron blocks where all pot metal, and they started
cracking on me. Finally took them out and found the pot metal was
crumbling. Bad, bad, deterioration. Looked up for replacement parts,
it was a no go. Then spotted the newest fancy bearing/wheel guides and
did my research found out they would work, BUT! $200 bucks plus ea,
for top and bottom. WHAT! I say, I can buy a whole saw for near that
amount, and I just have a basically hobby shop. I searched and search,
thought and thought and woke up one morning and said, I can do that!
So I went to the local metal shop, bought some square tubing, and cold
rolled stock and went home and cut and brazed the pieces together
using the old stuff as by guide, and then polished up the brackets and
voila! after cleaning the saw mounting portion they fit better than
the originals, and were very easy to adjust. Went to the local store
and bought both 1/4" blocks for the blades and also bought some kind
of graphite block stuff for it, used the graphite and reset the
adjustments and haven't looked back. The saw now works great, swapping
blades is easy to do, set up for the ride on the wheels, and set the
adjustment for the blade guides.
I'm thinking, after hearing how some guys just trashed their old BS
because the failed guides that I should hunt them down, make my new
ones and sell the saws, making a good profit, but NAW, I retired and
want to wood work. BTW, the material for the guide blocks was less
than 20 bucks total, not counting the block kits.
But bottom line the co-planar thing is out, IMHO.
The only really difficult part is getting the blade back on. They lose
one size in width when you stretch them i.e. a 1/2" blade becomes
3/8", the 3/8" will be 1/4". The good new is what was originally a 1/4"
blade will be great for tight curves.
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