Attaching drawer fronts to drawers

I have completed an entertainment center with 6 drawers, 3 on the left side and 3 on the right side. Each drawer is 1/2" baltic birch plywood and the drawer fronts are teak to match the rest of the entertainment center. I want to attach the drawer fronts to the drawers so I have some wiggle room to adjust them. I have put 1/4" holes in the drawers. I have washer head screws. The washer heads will cover the 1/4" hole allowing me to move the drawer front a little. The key to all this is to drill some pilot holes for the washer head screws dead center in the 1/4" holes. I hate to just eyeball it though I could do that if there is no better way. What advice do you cabinet making guys have for me on this problem?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I'm just an amateur, wouldn't claim to be a "cabinet making guy" but how about clamping the drawer front to the drawer, then using a transfer punch or dowel center in the 1/4" holes to mark the pilot hole center?
:wq
--
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I had a similar thought last night after stopping work.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/20/2011 9:44 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Normally I don't like wiggle room on drawer fronts, I like it to stay exactly where I put it. I always figure a way to insure the fronts are where I want them before drilling/screwing. If I ever screw it up, I could enlarge the hole later for needed wiggle room.
I have put 1/4" holes in the drawers. I have washer head

Vix bits are used for centering holes in hinges, drawer pulls and what not, but the accuracy of a vix bit would diminish the thicker the material. You should get reasonable results if you are careful. Anyone installing hinges, drawer pulls etc. should have vix bits. Not sure if mine would work in a 1/4" hole, they might slide right in, but would probably still work.
http://tinyurl.com/3w3fs9c
--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/20/2011 8:44 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:

I've watched a lot of professional trim carpenters do this in various ways. Their preferred method is as you're doing, except they use a cabinet screw made by FastCap, with a big head, for the hole that is much larger than the shaft of the screw, giving them the wiggle room for which you're seeking ... the size of the hole they use means they don't need the precision in locating the hold.
I'm not enamored of this method unless you really need 1/32 adjustment precision, which occasionally happens.
Now what you're asking for, but my favorite method, particularly for overlay drawers, is to pre-drill two holes in the drawer; screw in a sharp pointed drywall screw, with just the sharp point sticking out; then, with the drawer closed and using a shim cut for the purpose on the bottom of the drawer front, align the drawer front and press it hard into the sharp points of the protruding screws; remove the drawer, holding both pieces together, and screw the drywall screws in just far enough to make an indention to start the real screws; remove the drywall screws and replace with the desired screw.
I've tried every method there is and the above is still my standby; and you can do it much faster, and with a lot more precision, than you can explain it.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I need to remember that, Karl. Seems easy, maybe add some double-stick tape to hold the front in place on the drawer.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/21/2011 7:56 AM, Han wrote:

That works very well providing you're careful, but is not as fast, IME ... and the thickness of the tape can be an issue with the fit and finish, although that's not a serious consideration with most projects.
I think Leon's new method is great, particularly if you have full say so where the hardware is going ... but, and there is always a gotcha in most methods, often our clients don't know where the hell they want their hardware to be situated until they see the cabinets installed, and this is something you can't change your mind on.
AAMOF, we've got one client right now that changes her mind 11 times in 10 minutes, and then again a week later on the same issue. :(
There are at least three of Leon's beautiful "Domino Drawers" that have gone to waste ... even on a cost plus job, that aggravates my sensibilites to no end. My tongue is almost bitten through at this point.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/20/2011 8:44 PM, Dick Snyder wrote:

Like Swingman I have done it the way he had described for many years but I am currently working on 8 drawers on 2 tower cabinets and am going to try out a new method that I dreamed up.
First off, decide where your drawer pull hardware is going to go on the outer drawer front and predrill small holes in the outer drawer front, just large enough to guide a couple of screws and put in a couple of screws in that location but "just past" the back surface of the outer drawer front.
Place the drawer front where you like it and screw the 2 screws into the drawer. Your drawer front is now attached to the drawer in the correct location. Open the drawer and put in permanent attaching screws from the inside out.
Remove the first 2 outer screws and finish drilling those holes all the way through and attach the handle.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If I can get things aligned quick enough, I like a couple of dabs of hot melt glue. Position the front, let the glue set, drill the holes, remove the front, peel away the glue, reassemble.
-Bruce
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Bruce's method seems to me (a newbie, really) similar to the double stick tape idea. But I like Leon's approach best ... I'll use that next!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5/21/2011 7:57 AM, Leon wrote:

OK for what it is worth, I tried my method and it works like a charm. I attached 4 drawer fronts to he first tower using the method mentioned above and results were exactly as expected. The second set of 4 drawer fronts with no fuss or tweaking took 4 minutes for all 4 drawers.
I'll attach pictures at a.b.p.w.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Thanks to all of you for your help. I have posted three pictures of the finished project in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking if you are interested.
Dick Snyder
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Related Threads

    HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.