I have completed an entertainment center with 6 drawers, 3 on the left side
and 3 on the right side. Each drawer is 1/2" baltic birch plywood and the
drawer fronts are teak to match the rest of the entertainment center. I want
to attach the drawer fronts to the drawers so I have some wiggle room to
adjust them. I have put 1/4" holes in the drawers. I have washer head
screws. The washer heads will cover the 1/4" hole allowing me to move the
drawer front a little. The key to all this is to drill some pilot holes for
the washer head screws dead center in the 1/4" holes. I hate to just eyeball
it though I could do that if there is no better way. What advice do you
cabinet making guys have for me on this problem?
I'm just an amateur, wouldn't claim to be a "cabinet making guy" but
how about clamping the drawer front to the drawer, then using a transfer
punch or dowel center in the 1/4" holes to mark the pilot hole center?
When the game is over, the pawn and the king are returned to the same box.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
Normally I don't like wiggle room on drawer fronts, I like it to stay
exactly where I put it. I always figure a way to insure the fronts are
where I want them before drilling/screwing. If I ever screw it up, I
could enlarge the hole later for needed wiggle room.
I have put 1/4" holes in the drawers. I have washer head
Vix bits are used for centering holes in hinges, drawer pulls and what
not, but the accuracy of a vix bit would diminish the thicker the
material. You should get reasonable results if you are careful. Anyone
installing hinges, drawer pulls etc. should have vix bits.
Not sure if mine would work in a 1/4" hole, they might slide right in,
but would probably still work.
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
I've watched a lot of professional trim carpenters do this in various
ways. Their preferred method is as you're doing, except they use a
cabinet screw made by FastCap, with a big head, for the hole that is
much larger than the shaft of the screw, giving them the wiggle room for
which you're seeking ... the size of the hole they use means they don't
need the precision in locating the hold.
I'm not enamored of this method unless you really need 1/32 adjustment
precision, which occasionally happens.
Now what you're asking for, but my favorite method, particularly for
overlay drawers, is to pre-drill two holes in the drawer; screw in a
sharp pointed drywall screw, with just the sharp point sticking out;
then, with the drawer closed and using a shim cut for the purpose on the
bottom of the drawer front, align the drawer front and press it hard
into the sharp points of the protruding screws; remove the drawer,
holding both pieces together, and screw the drywall screws in just far
enough to make an indention to start the real screws; remove the drywall
screws and replace with the desired screw.
I've tried every method there is and the above is still my standby; and
you can do it much faster, and with a lot more precision, than you can
That works very well providing you're careful, but is not as fast, IME
... and the thickness of the tape can be an issue with the fit and
finish, although that's not a serious consideration with most projects.
I think Leon's new method is great, particularly if you have full say so
where the hardware is going ... but, and there is always a gotcha in
most methods, often our clients don't know where the hell they want
their hardware to be situated until they see the cabinets installed, and
this is something you can't change your mind on.
AAMOF, we've got one client right now that changes her mind 11 times in
10 minutes, and then again a week later on the same issue. :(
There are at least three of Leon's beautiful "Domino Drawers" that have
gone to waste ... even on a cost plus job, that aggravates my
sensibilites to no end. My tongue is almost bitten through at this point.
Like Swingman I have done it the way he had described for many years but
I am currently working on 8 drawers on 2 tower cabinets and am going to
try out a new method that I dreamed up.
First off, decide where your drawer pull hardware is going to go on the
outer drawer front and predrill small holes in the outer drawer front,
just large enough to guide a couple of screws and put in a couple of
screws in that location but "just past" the back surface of the outer
Place the drawer front where you like it and screw the 2 screws into the
drawer. Your drawer front is now attached to the drawer in the correct
location. Open the drawer and put in permanent attaching screws from
the inside out.
Remove the first 2 outer screws and finish drilling those holes all the
way through and attach the handle.
OK for what it is worth, I tried my method and it works like a charm. I
attached 4 drawer fronts to he first tower using the method mentioned
above and results were exactly as expected. The second set of 4 drawer
fronts with no fuss or tweaking took 4 minutes for all 4 drawers.
I'll attach pictures at a.b.p.w.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.