Attaching blast gates

I have a cast aluminum blast gate and want to connect this to a Powermatic 66 dust port. The diameters are the same and the blast gate is slightly tapered. These are slightly less than 4" in diameter and both ports have about 3/4" to fasten a connector of some kind. Any ideas? Thanks.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Duct tape?
You can use a short length of flex pipe that will fit over both, or a short length of PVC drain pipe that also will fit over both and then screw or pop rivet them.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Got a lathe? Attach a piece of something/anything to a face plate (I prefer a screw center) and turn one side part way through to one diameter. Flip it over and turn the other side to the other diameter (nothing is exactly the same diameter).
Be a wee bit more careful when you get within the last 64th. of an inch at the middle.
Paint to match the machine or go for an aluminum finish by gilding with some Reynold's Wrap.
UA100
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Great idea! Yes, I have a Conover lathe, plenty of scrap wood pieces, a few face plates, and a can of aluminum paint. This should make a sturdy and tight connection, exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

I used a scrap piece of 2x6 pine mounted on a faceplate and turned it today just as suggested. The first turning was to fit the PM66 dust port. I drilled a pilot through the three mounting holes of the faceplate to get the same center on the other side of the 2x6. Then I turned the blast gate side. It fits great! I spray painted it with some aluminum paint to match the blast gate, and tomorrow I'll fit it together and seal with some silicon cement. Thanks!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I got to thinking about this and was wondering, cocobolo with the aluminum paint? :-)
Nice thing about the lathe is you can sneak up on the opening at the pipe side for a friction fit.
UA100
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Phisherman wrote:

A short piece of 4" D Schedule 40, a couple of sheet metal screws and some "Duct Seal".
-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Take a piece of 4" Sewer and Drain PVC pipe, perhaps 6" long. Use a thin hand saw to cut slots about 1" long at each end of the pipe, perpendicular to the length of the pipe. Space the slots equally so there are 8 slots on each end. You can now use a 4 1/2" band clamp on each end to clamp it to the port and blast gate respectively.
I use a Japanese razor crosscut saw to cut the slots. Be sure you use the flat stainless band clamp, not the crappy wire type clamp some wood supplies sell. Lowe's and Home depot sell the flat band clamps.
Don't use any duct tape or other type of tape. It will creep and slip over time.
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
"perpendicular to the length of the pipe..."
Sorry my description was incorrect. The slots are parallel to the length of the pipe (perpendicular to the end of the pipe).
Bob
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.