Asbestos concern?

Larry Jaques wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Perhaps the company was certified, but the poor non-English-speking Eastern European "slaves" who did the asbestos removal in the Manhattan VA many years back could have or were definitely contaminated.

DAMHIKT, and IANAL

Reply to
Han
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Larry, Please don't hesitate to think up new projects for me! I'm having a hard time keep up as it is! : )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

This one is pretty good too!

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the ceiling compounds gave the finishers an easy way out, I would anticipate that some extra drywall work will be required. Nothing like working on the ceiling, huh? : )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

In this age of sensationalism and alarmism both of those are in very short supply. Especially when it comes to the elected people who make the laws. Art

Reply to
Artemus

Dave wrote the following:

My point is that you don't have to get the EPA involved in every scare. You don't have to call the EPA to remove some encapsulated asbestos ceiling if you take the proper precautions, like wearing a dust mask and wetting the ceiling before scraping off . The people most affected by asbestos are the workers in the manufacturing plants. Black lung is a disease mostly affecting coal miners, not people with coal stoves and furnaces. You don't have to call in the EPA when you break a fluorescent bulb. Now, you can call me any names or question my intelligence, but I will not act in kind. My younger brother died of esophageal cancer and he didn't smoke. He went from 220 lbs to less than a 100 before he died. Who or what do I blame for that?

Reply to
willshak

When the plasterboard finishers in my newly constructed home, built in

1984, the spackle guy asked me if I wanted to have a 'swirled finish' on the LR and DR ceilings. Of course, we said OK. He told us it would cost a little extra and we agreed. He used an old wallpaper brush to do the swirling. Many of you know that it takes about 3 days to do a proper spackling job, depending upon the relative humidity. 1st coat one day, sand and second coat the second day, finish sand the third day. We paid extra to eliminate the second and third day for the spackling finishing on the LR and DR ceilings. We did learn a lesson though. I watched the guy swirl the ceiling and did some more ceilings in the house myself.
Reply to
willshak

Dave wrote the following:

My point is that you don't have to get the EPA involved in every scare. You don't have to call the EPA to remove some encapsulated asbestos ceiling if you take the proper precautions, like wearing a dust mask and wetting the ceiling before scraping off . The people most affected by asbestos are the workers in the manufacturing plants. Black lung is a disease mostly affecting coal miners, not people with coal stoves and furnaces. You don't have to call in the EPA when you break a fluorescent bulb. Now, you can call me any names or question my intelligence, but I will not act in kind. My younger brother died of esophageal cancer and he didn't smoke. He went from 220 lbs to less than a 100 before he died. Who or what do I blame for that?

==================

...and the best advice is

DO NOT TAKE THE ADVICE ONLINE from CASUAL AQUAINTANCES WHEN IT COMES TO LIFE THREATENING DECISIONS.

Get real advice from a professional that can be trusted.

Reply to
Eric

He already has ...

Reply to
Swingman

Where can I find a "professional", who doesn't have a vested interest in making money off of me, that I can trust?

Where can I find a "professional", who isn't afraid of being sued by a flock of lawyers, that I can trust? Art

Reply to
Artemus

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the ceiling compounds gave the finishers an easy way out, I would anticipate that some extra drywall work will be required. Nothing like working on the ceiling, huh? : )

Bill

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It may be worth your while to attempt to follow the`advice in the video you supplied a`link to.

They sent a sample to a nearby EPA testing lab for asbestos verification with no reservations and no fire alarms went off as suggested. I doubt you live in a place of employment that all these fear mongers concerns may apply. You would know how much precaution to take and feel much safer knowing it is or isn't.

Finding out where and how may be another thing, though.

Be sure and be safe!

Reply to
Eric

I'm trying to eliminate the need for the AR analyzer to get involved and just let you do your projects, eh? ;)

Didja watch the video of the Blob falling from the ceiling? Cool, wot?

-- In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer. -- Albert Camus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Yeah, one of my favorite things to do. Kinda like shoveling gravel.

But after the scraping (and allowing it to dry thoroughly) all you really need to do is sand the entire ceiling. That doesn't take all that long with an extension pole, so figure an hour for that. Now texture it (Eek! Hire that out.) paint it, and put up those light fixtures. All done by Christmas!

-- In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer. -- Albert Camus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

"Bill" wrote

Thank you Ed, and everyone else to who provided me with advise in this thead! It is valuable to me now, and it will be in the future too!

By the way, if the stipple has a thin coat of paint on it does this change the way you have to go about dampening it? That is, is a spray bottle likely to go it? I presume with a bit of patience...

As far as my light fixtures, I plan to make an open ended box-shaped template of the appropriate size. I can draw pencil lines, spray through the box, clean up the openings, and paint 'em up. I'm sure it will be great fun (lol)! ;) Actually, working in such a systematic fashion will probably help me complete the job quicker.

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I am not sure why you are making this complicated, like you are-and have done on other projects.

Step one- use a 3/4" roller, and paint the whole ceiling with white stain blocker paint. I suggest this step, because after I sprayed popcorn on my older house ceiling, brown stains bled through any place there was not joint compound under the paint. You will do the whole ceiling just as fast as painting only under the location of the lights as you are suggesting. The fresh white will reflect more light and be a fresh new look for your old ceiling.

Step two- put up your lights and conduit. If you are worried about the ceiling stipple breaking loose, put a little caulk on the part you are screwing to the ceiling. It will make a flat base for what you are putting up, and keep the possible asbestos from breaking free. Don't need to scrape any place, this way. Do not finish tightening the screws until the caulk dries, if it is not level enough for you when you tighten it all the way first.

I would strongly advise that you cut some 1/2" to 3/4" pieces of conduit to act as standoffs, to hold the light off the ceiling. Put the spacers up and run the screw through the light then the spacers, and the light will be much cooler, and last longer, and eliminate the possibility of the light overheating and cutting off. This will also make it easy so the light will only have a few points of contact of the spacers against the ceiling. This is an (old school) trick. You can use a pipe cutter for making spacers easy. Just don't use a pipe cutter for cutting the emt conduit, because of the sharp edge a pipe cutter will leave on the inside.

-- Jim in NC

Reply to
Morgans

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Jim,

I Was planning to paint the whole ceiling. I mentioned painting my "cutouts" above for the sake of sealing them. As you suggest, this is certainly not necessary if I'm prepared to paint the ceiling at the same time. An abundance of "stuff" makes even marking the places for the all of the lights a bit of a challenge because I have everything moved aways from ALL of the walls.

Your post contains some excellent suggestions! I've already printed it out.

BTW, I don't make things complicated on purpose. One of the lessons I learned from by mobile base project was not to make my tolerences too small: The specifications of the height of the castors did not incude their 1/8" frame, 3" bolts do not include the thickness of their heads, and even 2by4 lumber can't be depended upon to be of any size, let alone

2by8 lumber! Lesson gained! I have to give you all of the credit for teaching me about the mechanics of such mobile bases. I am pleased to tell you it came out pretty good and I will put a picture on my web page to show you after things are "tidied up".

Well, admittedly, I did complicate the mobile base project with "routing" on purpose. I wanted a "free lesson" in using my router for the first time. I received a very good lesson out of it too. I had a chance to make a few mistakes, and correct them. Many router projects wouldn't permit me a chance to re-route.

If you see me making something more complicated then I should, feel free to point it out! Thank you for your suggestions on my lighting and in general. I appreciate it!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Well, the stuff appears to come off Much easier than I would have supposed! Your comment about the stipple ruining the finishing is better-taken now too. At first, it just sounded like more work!

Reply to
Bill

I'll act in a safe manner and be safe! I treat all guns as loaded. I'm not least bit afraid of guns. For my $3000, I'd rather have a Delta Unisaw than a SawStop. I quit tobacco.

Bill

Reply to
Bill

I assume after you cleaned up that you would apply joint compound as required, sand, and give it a skim coat? What more would you do to the ceiling (sorry if I'm naive about it)? What sort of texture would you be looking for (name it, and I'll look it up)? After getting ceilings smoothe as a baby's bottom, why are we going to screw 'em up again? Yeah, I didn't know what a "ranch" house was very long before I owned one--I thought it was salad dressing. ; )

That doesn't take all

Reply to
Bill

The one time I've removed that crap, the ceiling had been taped, mudded, and sanded underneath. There was no repair necessary. That said, I've never seen popcorn sprayed on an untaped ceiling, but I wasn't in the industry. I've always been a solo freelancer.

You don't have to texture, but most walls and ceilings are -not- perfect (use high gloss paint and see for yourself ) and that shows without a texture to hide it.

Chapter 8, Page 162++, of course. Or match the texture you put on the rest of the walls.

(Yes, from Myron Ferguson's _Drywall_ book.)

-- In the depth of winter, I finally learned that within me there lay an invincible summer. -- Albert Camus

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Your idea impressed me even more since I sent my last message. I make spacers out of 1/2" EMT and use them to separate the fixtures from the underlying wallboard (duh)... I presume they will slice neatly through the stipple...

Now, I also understand also how you suggest to use the caulk...beautiful.

You surely saved me much time and unnecessary aggravation!

Bill

Reply to
Bill

It much feel terrible to have a ceilings with minor imperfections and irregularities! ; )

Reply to
Bill

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