April Fools???

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On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 3:53:19 PM UTC-4, tdacon wrote:

Tom, Thanks for the link...looks like some of the owners/users over SMC have struggled a bit with that plate...I have not read all the comments yet... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?120302-Dowel-Plate-Woes
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Hey Tom, Last night I spent several minutes hammering out sixteen 3/8 inch dia. dowe ls and twelve 1/4 inch dia. dowels, all Sapele, 3 inch long using my Lie N ielsen dowel plate. My arm felt real weak afterward. This morning I saw t he Woodpecker ad and was real happy that I saved $345. I'm certain the Wo odpecker machine makes straighter dowels with less noise but I get a certai n amount of pleasure making mine with the plate. Also, whenever I give away or sell a project with exposed dowels the recip ient/customer always appears intrigued when I tell them I made the dowels w ith the LN plate and a hammer.
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Looks like a solution in need of a problem.

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On 10/11/2016 4:47 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

I think it may work as a nut cracker too! ;~)
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On 10/11/2016 4:47 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

Yep, always been pretty much Woodpecker's business model,IMO; but I admit to having purchased a number of their offerings ... some of their sizzle has more steak than than others.
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On 10/11/2016 5:35 PM, Swingman wrote:

Woodpeckers has a lot of great tools but it seems the stinkers tend to fall in the "One Time Tools" category. I probably use my story sticks as much a my Domino.. Ohhhhhhhh..
Having said that if I had not already been given a parallel guide for the Festool tracks, thank you very much, the WoodPeckers one time tool that does the same as the parallel guides seems better thought out and more useful and in the same price range.
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+1 another example:

https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ev-yPAQu4I0?autoplay=1

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On 10/13/2016 8:34 AM, Spalted Walt wrote:

I saw this guy several months ago and wondered "WHY". Why not just put the second clamp beside the first?
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That wouldn't create the VERTICAL pressure.
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Why not? There would be a small twist because of the offset but it's the same idea.
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Yes it does when you alternate sides, and the champs do not need to be close, every 10-15" works well for me. You just evenly tighten all clamps in steps.
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On Friday, October 14, 2016 at 7:55:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

But would it apply 1000 lbs? ;-)
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I agree that it is the conventional way to keep the glue up flat but I don't see how it applies vertical pressure. What am I missing?
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On 10/14/2016 12:03 PM, dadiOH wrote:

Maybe I am misunderstanding. What do the modified clamps do that regular clamps will not do? If it is to prevent the bar from bending and warping the panel, alternating sides with clamps do the same. That is how I prevent the clamp bars from bowing and bending the glue up.
You do have to snug all evenly, top and bottom, then add more pressure evenly, top and bottom, and so on.
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They apply downward as well as lateral pressure because of the slope in the modified tail pieces. The top clamp fits in the bottom clamp, tightening the top one forces them down. That downward force all along the bar keeps the glueup flat. That's what the scale was showing...downward pressure. Of course, for that down push to function, the pieces being glued need to be on a flat surface.
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On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 6:44:42 AM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:

Doesn't the bar of the bottom clamp provide that flat surface automatically?
The glue-up is being squeezed between 2 flat "surfaces" so it'll be flat regardless of where the jig is set up.
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Only if the bottom clamp is squeezing too.

Actually the glue up is being squeezed between two clamp bars that are trying to each bend in opposite directions thus counteracting the bends in both bars. Loosen either clamp and the other will bend along with the piece being clamped.
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On 10/15/2016 7:55 AM, Leon wrote: ...

The fella' in the video has the work being clamped supported on heavy flat cauls underneath, not the clamp bars so the top tapered clamp is pressing against them, not the other clamp bar. I didn't watch it again, don't recall if he'd use another caul on top or just the bar but his scale demo illustrated a pretty decent vertical force being exerted; a couple hundred pounds.
Of course, holding the panel flat forcibly while it's being glued doesn't mean it'll stay there when the clamps are removed...that'll mostly depend on how well the edges were milled square w/ the faces or that were alternated to compensate. :)
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On 10/15/2016 8:50 AM, dpb wrote:

The act of simply putting a clamp on top and bottom counteracts the clamps tendency to bend.
As you may have been referring to, if the glue up is warped to begin with, flattening it during glue up will not change anything.
His downward pressure is simply to counteract improperly placed and applied force. If he would learn how to clamp panels correctly he would not need this crutch.
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On 10/15/2016 11:26 AM, Leon wrote: ...

...
The problem generally isn't the clamp itself bending but getting the force _directly_ normal to the edge...
If the edges are milled correctly, his technique possibly will speed up things a little by not requiring such finicky placement as otherwise.
But, agreed, it _can_ be done without the "crutch"...
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