On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 3:53:19 PM UTC-4, tdacon wrote:
Thanks for the link...looks like some of the owners/users over SMC have struggled a bit with that plate...I have not read all the comments yet...
Last night I spent several minutes hammering out sixteen 3/8 inch dia. dowe
ls and twelve 1/4 inch dia. dowels, all Sapele, 3 inch long using my Lie N
ielsen dowel plate. My arm felt real weak afterward. This morning I saw t
he Woodpecker ad and was real happy that I saved $345. I'm certain the Wo
odpecker machine makes straighter dowels with less noise but I get a certai
n amount of pleasure making mine with the plate.
Also, whenever I give away or sell a project with exposed dowels the recip
ient/customer always appears intrigued when I tell them I made the dowels w
ith the LN plate and a hammer.
Woodpeckers has a lot of great tools but it seems the stinkers tend to
fall in the "One Time Tools" category. I probably use my story sticks
as much a my Domino.. Ohhhhhhhh..
Having said that if I had not already been given a parallel guide for
the Festool tracks, thank you very much, the WoodPeckers one time tool
that does the same as the parallel guides seems better thought out and
more useful and in the same price range.
Maybe I am misunderstanding. What do the modified clamps do that
regular clamps will not do? If it is to prevent the bar from bending
and warping the panel, alternating sides with clamps do the same. That
is how I prevent the clamp bars from bowing and bending the glue up.
You do have to snug all evenly, top and bottom, then add more pressure
evenly, top and bottom, and so on.
They apply downward as well as lateral pressure because of the slope in the
modified tail pieces. The top clamp fits in the bottom clamp, tightening
the top one forces them down. That downward force all along the bar keeps
the glueup flat. That's what the scale was showing...downward pressure. Of
course, for that down push to function, the pieces being glued need to be on
a flat surface.
Actually the glue up is being squeezed between two clamp bars that are
trying to each bend in opposite directions thus counteracting the bends in
both bars. Loosen either clamp and the other will bend along with the
piece being clamped.
The fella' in the video has the work being clamped supported on heavy
flat cauls underneath, not the clamp bars so the top tapered clamp is
pressing against them, not the other clamp bar. I didn't watch it
again, don't recall if he'd use another caul on top or just the bar but
his scale demo illustrated a pretty decent vertical force being exerted;
a couple hundred pounds.
Of course, holding the panel flat forcibly while it's being glued
doesn't mean it'll stay there when the clamps are removed...that'll
mostly depend on how well the edges were milled square w/ the faces or
that were alternated to compensate. :)
The act of simply putting a clamp on top and bottom counteracts the
clamps tendency to bend.
As you may have been referring to, if the glue up is warped to begin
with, flattening it during glue up will not change anything.
His downward pressure is simply to counteract improperly placed and
applied force. If he would learn how to clamp panels correctly he would
not need this crutch.
The problem generally isn't the clamp itself bending but getting the
force _directly_ normal to the edge...
If the edges are milled correctly, his technique possibly will speed up
things a little by not requiring such finicky placement as otherwise.
But, agreed, it _can_ be done without the "crutch"...
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