I'm pretty much a home improvement jack-of-all-trades, and for years I've been applying one thin coat of stain, wiping it off right away and going, that's too light. Crap. But this last time, I had to match a dark cherry shade with Minwax stain. So I used the following method: Apply the sealer (on pine) Apply a coat of stain without wiping it off and allow about 10 minutes, then feather it lightly to remove streaks before it sets with a brush. Apply another coat and do the same thing. And another, as many as it takes to get to the shade you want, as long as you feather it out with a bristle brush just before it sets. Wait at least 2 days before varnishing, the longer the better, and I guarantee there will be no stain bleeding off into your brush, and you'll be able to stand back and admire a job well done.
what Leon said, OR: Iif you can find it, Bonakemi DriFast stain, which is an oil modified quick dry stain. There aren't lots of colors, but if you find the color you need, it is awesome stuff. I used it recently after being warned away from Miniwax stains for staining my living room floor during a refinishing project. Bonakemi tech support said that customer complaints of adhesion problems were due to using Miniwax stains under their floor finishs.
Hey Dave, How does that DriFast stain do when it comes to lap marks and where did you get it? Have you ever tried Bartleys? It only comes in about 12 colors so selection is small but it too dries quickly. You can pretty much handle it in a couple minutes after wiping off the excess and the same goes for their gel wiping varnish. After a minute or two dust does not stick to it.
I have not found a better one, especially in a gel stain. Zar is pretty good.
Sounds about like the same colors that Bartleys offers. IIRC recoat with Bartleys is 4 hours. No real smell with it also.
These two stains sound a lot alike. Bartleys leaves no lap marks either unless your are careless and let a gob dry in place without wiping it off. BUT..!!!!! With Bartleys if you have a "goof" you simply apply more to the thick or too dark area and let it soak in a few seconds and then wipe it off. The "over application" comes off....After the initial aplication, you follow up with their Gel varnish if you want or anyone elses but using theirs you have NO sanding or scuffing between coats. Each sucessive layer of stain or varnish melts into the previous. The hand wiped finish is like glass. Not trying to sell you on this over the DriFast as both lound like they are pretty darn closely matched.
I was warned about the difficulties in using a waterbased
For the first time last week I used a water based stain made by General Finishes. I was pleased with the results. Even on Oak I got very little raised grain and did not predampen and sand before applying the stain..I was however looking for a rustic look and feel and did not care if the finish was rough or not. This was on picture frames that I built for S. Texas landscape paintings. It was like using paint that covered well and then I wiped it off.
You are probably not going to find Bartleys at a Borg.. Wood Craft Stocks it and it is in their catalog. Mostly dedicated woodworking stores sell it. I can get it at the hardwood lumber suppliers in Houston and you can order dirrect. A little pricey but it goes a long way. About $15 a quart but 1 quart of stain took care of my whole remodeled kitchen 13 years ago. Followed with 3 coats and or 2 quarts of the same brand varnish.
Actually because I was not concerned with smoothness I applied the stain directly to the fresh planed wood. That is probably why the grain did not raise much. Sanding scratches and tares the wood fibers. Since I actually cut the finish surface there was a minimum of tears to raise up.... I guess. I did do a search for the product and there are a couple of places in Houston that sell it. Thanks.
I had a hunch you were going to tell me you planed the wood. That's what I thought would keep the grain from raising. I STILL need to get my butt in gear and order the Veritas Low Angle Block Plane from Lee Valley.
BTW, even though the recoat is 2 hours, I didn't want to temp fate, so I waited about 5 1/2 - 6 hours to apply the sealer coat on the floor. Not that it wouldn't have been ok in 2 hours, but I didn't want you to get the idea that I am endorsing pushing the limits.
Being from Texas I understand that anything close is about all that was taught in most schools there.
Also, I don't know the exact chemistry of the finish you're discussing but bear in mind that in some cases delaying the recoat may result in less adhesion between layers. With a polymerizing coating it is better to recoat before polymerization has proceeded to completion.
Phil
Le> Being from Texas, I understood "temt" as meaning "tempt" :~)
My misprounciation pet peeve is when folks say "axe" instead of "ask". That always sounds so backwater to me. I did a search on the 'net the other day after seeing a gal in a recently popular commercial say "axe". I thought it was an ethnic thing, until I read that it is regional. I've only heard African-Americans pronounce it that way. Guess I haven't noticed any of us white folks saying "axe me a question..." I gotta start paying closer attention.
dave
Le> Being from Texas, I understood "temt" as meaning "tempt" :~)
"I could care less" (wrong) instead of "I couldn't care less (right) sets my teeth on edge.
West side Clevelanders (Ohio) tend to turn a final d into a t. e.g. Clevelant, ant, etc. Bothers me when I notice it, but since my wife of over 20 years is from the Cleveland west side, tend not to hear it anymore.
the KKK is of course, the KU Klux Klan. Many talking heads say "KLU Klux Klan". and those SOB's are all pulling in 6 and 7 figure salaries. There's no justice in the world...
Well, I know it's a bizarre thing, but it follows the spelling you see. So, is it easier living in place where spelling appears to be a matter of personal choice? I'd imagine it leaves lots of free time for doing other things over a whole lifetime! ;O)
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