ANYONE Use Kreg (or anybody elses) Pocket screw guides???


looking for some tips?
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No tips needed. The Kreg jig works perfectly. I bought the deluxe kit which has the plastic one instead of the aluminum jig but it is guaranteed for life and works perfectly. max

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Same here. Use it for some things (face frames mostly), like it alot. "It just works". Long as you keep things cut square and clamped well while putting the screws in, there's nothing to go wrong.
Dave Hinz
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Clamp parts securely when assembling. They WILL move.

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AMEN! Using the visegrip clamp, put the large pad on the front side of the work, with the hingepin in the pad at right angles to the joint, if possible. Wilson

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I have used my deluxe kit for about a year now and never had an issue. Just remember to use the proper screw for the material
coarse screws for soft woods fine screws for hard woods

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I bought the mini Kreg kit a few months ago from Lee Valley for a job that I did. The only regret that I have is that I didn't buy the complete Kreg K2000 Jig. IMO it is an excellent product.
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TB wrote:

I've been meaning to purchase one of these jigs/tools and this thread pushed me over the edge - not that it takes all that much<g>
Did some checking and found the best price for the K2000 PP at www.coastaltool.com $132.50 which includes the $22.50 value screw sampler pack as a bonus. Seemed that overall their prices for all of the Kreg line were quite reasonable and they don't gouge on shipping. I ordered some other items which ran the total to over $215 and the UPS ground charge was still only $7.50.
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HMFIC@1369 wrote:

You may be able to permanently secure the jig to a workbench or work surface in your shop, a friend with a large shop and 3 workbenches did do this but I have clamped the jig to a perpendicular shelf support where it takes up no work surface at all. Haven't had to move it so far.
I have dedicated an plug-in drill for this use so I don't have to think about batteries and when they were last charged.
Josie
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Best tip: go to the Kreg site and print the information on screws, screw lengths, and drill depths. Very helpful. It used to be buried, but now there's a link from the home page.
http://kregtool.com/screws_product_page.asp
-- Tom

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I purchased the R2 model. It seems to do exactly what I need it to do. But I think eventually I'll get the kitchen sink model!
Thanks All!

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HMFIC@1369 wrote:

    Make sure you're using a fast drill. 2000RPM at least. That pretty much rules out cordless drills. Keep the bit sharp. I have a few so I can send two at a time back to Kreg to be sharpened. ($4 for the first bit, $2 each additional.)
-Steve
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Stephen Henry wrote:

Steve has provided two good tips here. I got good results with a 3000RPM corded drill - and get even better results with a faster (inexpensive) air-powered drill from HF.
I also have two pair of bits - it does help to keep 'em sharp!
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
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HMFIC@1369 wrote:

on it, the other is a pin that fits in the pocket hole. Very good if you do case work to hold the faceframes on.
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Clamp the pieces down to the table with the majority of the clamp surface on the piece being connected too. This way the faces stay even and the piece being screwed down can synch down as you drill.
The Kreg and other benchtop type systems drill at 12-15 degrees and that can cause the piece being screwed to want to climb up a little during screwing (I do the same thing).
The Castle or other machine router/drill combo types make 6 degree pockets but even then the joint wants to climb if you don't clamp.
Final tip is for stronger joints you can use longer screws if the material will accomodate. I use normal split tip type wood screws for this vs pockets screws without any perceptable problems.
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Thanks looks like a lot of good recommendations, I'll be sure to accommodate them!!
Joe

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