Anyone Near Myrtle Beach SC - have a shop I can rent/borrow for a few hours?


Ok - here the situation. We have a new condo on the beach that needs a new counter top. (The previous owners for what ever reason thought that a fire engine red formica counter top would look great in a kitchen w/ beige tile) My plan is this - to remove the old counter top - cart it to my shop here (raleigh) - make a new one to w/ different formica - cart the new one back. The problem is that I live 3 hours away and its a large 3 peice counter. 1 corner peice. 1 bar peice and normal counter peice.
Thinking about that - the time and gas carting it there and back - it almost makes it worth it to go to the local borg and custom order it.
I have the materials to make it - Ill even bring my own blades and routers and helper - really just need a tablesaw and some space to do the formica.
Dont mind renting the space - or trade or whatever - Ill even give you the old counter top if you want it.
Thanks, Rob
You can reply to me at r_b_v at v_e_r_z_e_r_a doht c_o_m (remove the _ to get the address)
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How about setting up a shop at the condo? An excuse for some new tools? Maybe a portable table saw is in order! It doesn't need to be cabinet saw precise for a countertop.
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:) now that would be nice w/ a full shop at the house - it would be tough to fly that one by the wife!!

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back.
almost
If you are just replacing the formica why remove it? Just sand the top et al and then put the new formica on that - simple and works well. (use the GOOD contact cement - the flamable kind...)
BB
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If the old Formica is still attached solidly - sand it, clean it (denatured alcohol) contact cement and put the new Formica right over it. Couldn't ask for a better surface to work on.
I know it's not the same but I did an oval shaped ~10' long 42" wide conference table in the clients office space (at night, alone). I used a scroll saw with a fine blade to rough cut the Formica to shape, used old blind slates to hold the Formica off the contact cement, rolled it down (J-roller) and used a router to trim the edges. Cleanup was some fine Formica dust from cutting. I attached my shop vac to the router and that kept everything nice and clean.
My only mistake was using the strongest smelling contact cement they made I think and after about 5 min of that, I had to open the windows. Get the good stuff as someone said - you'll know it's the good stuff when you see the price.... Be sure you read the can and get a small container of whatever solvent is needed for cleanup. Stuff happens and J-rollers can find wet glue whenever you lay them down for a minute.
Bob S.

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The problem is its got a bull nose on it - Just about all the formica Ive done either had a wood band or it was square. If I just remove the old counter - and re-cover it - how do I handle the bullnose?

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The bullnose could be cut off and a wood edging applied or still glue some wood edging on but cover it with the Formica to extend out as far as the bullnose did.
If your top has the raised drip-edge that prevents spills from going over the edge it means you need to cut off about 2" and then glue on a wood edge. My sister-in-law finished her kitchen renovation this past summer and covered her old Formica top with tiles on the top and tile edging. The backstop was made the same height as the tiles (approx 4" sq) and it turned out fantastic.
Bob S.

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Shoot me a "real email address"... I can help you out.
Rob V wrote:

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