Anyone got the new LV honing guide?

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w/o a guide I always get a rounded bevel, no matter how hard I try to avoid it. Isn't that one of the main reasons to use a guide? Your a better man than I if you can freehand a perfect bevel and micro bevel.
Dave
Hax Planx wrote:

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People have told me that I have a rather unusual technique. I sharpen by hand and hold the stone in one hand and the blade in the other. The blade is stationary and I move the stone. Been doing it this way for over thirty years.

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How big a stone ? I know lots of people (especially carvers) who do this, but they use small slip stones (or else broken stones), not bench stones.
This is the way I work on swords too, except I'm holding the blade down with my foot and a clamp.
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On Thu, 16 Jun 2005 10:56:45 +0100, Andy Dingley wrote:

It's also a useful technique for knives, I've found. It's easier to keep the correct angle by moving the bench stone over the stationary knife. That is, for blades such as hunting knives and such. Axes come to mind, also.
Recall the Forstner sharpening jig in Leonard Lee's book.
For the record, I have now tried the Mk II on spokeshave blades--Stanley style, not classic wooden shave blades. The 151 size will barely, but successfully, work with the mid-range 25 degree setting. Smaller 63/64 blades won't work in the midrange. They'll clamp in the #3 "back bevel" range, but the jig doesn't label a 25 degree stop there. There _are_ other stops machined into the jig (for the other two ranges) and I found one that is pretty close to 25 degrees. Trouble is, "there's no there there" to register against the side rail. I have it "squared" to the rail, but I'm seeing a canted bevel as I work the blade on a 325 diamond stone. The LV short-blade holder for the Mk I would probably be just the ticket for the Mk II. I also have put some wear on the bottom jaw while fussing with the little blades.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
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I made a couple of honing guides from hardwood designed to provide a wide and stable footing for "scary sharp" honing. The main design criteria was that the guide should be self-aligning. Here are some pics -- complete description on the sharpening page on my website.
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/both_guides.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/chisel_guide_bottom.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/chisel_plane_guide.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/scraper_iron_guide.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65/scraper_guide_top.jpg
Ken Vaughn Visit My Workshop: http://home.earthlink.net/~kvaughn65 /
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This is another instance where, whenever I think I have begun to learn something, someone comes along, and quietly, simply, reminds me that I am but a grasshopper in this craft.
Patriarch
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Patriarch says...

What, you don't have six marking gauges and 26 chisels and two table saws?
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Yes, in fact I do. And two lathes, and 5 routers, and maybe 25 handplanes, and a bunch of other stuff.
I have golf clubs, too. Still can't break 90, after 25 years.
You truly cannot buy a game.
Patriarch
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Patriarch says...

Now you tell me...
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Some lessons have to be learned personally.
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You might like to try my version that costs very little. Please go to Sharpening Notes - A Honing Jig for Plane Irons.
Jeff G
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
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brand honing guide which is th same idea, but I despise it. So thank you for the reminder. And as usual, you don't have to reply.
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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Alex, I'm sorry, I thought you were refering to the Alisam Sharpening Sled when you mentioned riding in slurry. My apologies. Yes I am the inventor of the Sharpening sled. Regarding using the Mk II for the "Scary Sharp" technique I would say our model SS3 was made specifically for this technique. Plus the ability to sharpen scraper plane blades as well! It rides very low on the table or plate glass surface and with all the attributes of the taller Sharpening Sled models like, bevel accuracy, 4 points of stability, wide range of bevel angle detents including "back bevels", easily set a micro-bevel and an alignment guide. As far as cost, we are not the most expensive guide out there (a master honing guide for $98.60, with less capabilities as the Alisam), but I believe the best performance and value at this time. Thanks, I appreciate your support of my design. Tim Queeno
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David wrote:

I tried to buy one yesterday at the local LV retail store. Unfortunately, they weren't in stock yet. I have my name on one, for when they come in later this week. I also picked up a Norton 4000/8000 waterstone while I was there.
--
Cheers,
Rob

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Hi Folks,
Mine arrived this morning. Imagine having a tool arrive in New Zealand before it gets to most of the people on rec.ww!
I have used the honing guide to sharpen exactly one plane iron. Maybe next weekend I'll have time to use it on a chisel or two.
It is head and shoulders above the old Veritas guide which I have had for many years and always hated. The setup is easy and doesn't require any fiddling. You set the stop, insert the blade, remove the stop and get to work.
The blade stays square to the roller and centered (left/right). So far, so good.
Cheers,
Larry

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DocRec Ltd http://www.docrec.com /
phone: +64-3-545-2105 fax: +64-3-545-2106
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Right okay, I thought as much. Sounds very good. But on what and how do you sharpen? Waterstones with slurry? Sheets on glass... ?
--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:57:05 -0700, David wrote:

Arrived today. Current guide is eclipse style, never had or used the Mk I Veritas guide.
Setup is quick and easy. Chisel slid all over the place. Aligned a plane blade with the jig. Checked it a couple of times during sharpening. (Had to take off a bunch of metal to go from eclipse's "25 degrees" to Mk II's "25 degrees".) Blade is so far off square that it has to be mounted cockeyed in the plane. Hmm.
Went back and re-read the instructions. Clamping force has to be equal for the bar to grip properly. Wording of the instructions is telling: no firm, unmoving grip is promised. The lower jaw really needs a pad of no-slip.
Instructions say to put drop of oil in indicated spots. I worry about contaminating my waterstones.
Shape is very well designed. Curves and cutouts fit the hand. I did feel some chafing while working with a 2" plane blade. Can't manage a Kirby-style grip.
I'll be putting a bit of electrical tape on the jig's projection stop to avoid nicks.
It's a huge improvement over the eclipse. I'd like to hear what Mk I owners think of it.
--
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
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