I hone my blades per the instructions that came with the 54a jointer,
which means holding a sharpening stone over the blades and firing up the
jointer (using precautions as listed in the manual). I like to do that
because I'm not perfect at getting 3 blades precisely set to the same
gnat's ass height. Once I think I'm within 2 or 3 thou, I let the stone
do the "rest".
You'll no doubt also be interested in a tub of my Patent Anti-Elephant
Omnibus Discouragement Dust. I sprinkle it out of the windows every time
I travel by bus and have yet to be plagued by elephants. It obviously
I hone my jointer blades on the machine, with a diamond hone. But I do
it with the machine very much off, and I use the correct angle for the
blades, not a tangent.
it provides a zero relief angle.
the jointer will still cut as long as the face is very small. because
the relief angle is zero, there is more support behind the edge, so it
will last a little longer before it needs sharpening. since the blades
are now all cutting at exactly the same height you may actually get a
better cut than you would have with the sharper blades before.
at least that's the theory....
CW... ya oughta know better than to get in a titfertat with bay area
but the procedure of spinning the blades against a stone isn't totally
bunk. I'd never do it to a woodworking machine, but there are some
setups where it really is the right thing to do.
it's basically a fine adjustment that does the same thing as the first
bit of use of the machine- it dulls the blades a little bit, producing
a microbevel (a tiny one only) with 0 relief angle. the edge produced
is not as sharp as it was before this, but it will last longer.
done even slightly wrong it will do serious damage to your blades,
your jointer and likely your body as well.
don't try it at home, folks.
This is the conclusion I came to as well. The physics of the process
just didn't add up to being the correct angle for 'honing'.
This, I am certain of.
Since you seem to be fairly well versed in this area, how about hand
honing the installed blades with a diamond paddle for a few strokes,
maintaining the original angles of the bevel - minus a degree. This
is what I have been doing to sweeten the edges before cutting
something difficult. Easy to rest the paddle hand on the outfeed
table and hold the cutter head at the proper angle with the other.
I know the stroke direction isn't optimal, but it sure seems to work.
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