I'm doing a deck (big project) and I'm thinking about buying a pnuematice framing nailer from HF. There are basically three out there for the same price. Anybody know what the big differences are between the three? Any concerns with the Central Pnuematic brand?
I have one for light duty and it seems to work OK. The only trouble is I had to buy more nails that I will ever use.
Speaking of HF, have you noticed that EVERYTHING from HB smells the same? I recently opened a shed door to show a neighbor my generator and the first thing he said it came from HF.He also said that about my miter saw, castors, drill, etc. All from HF.
You might also check at Lowes for a Senco framing nailer. They have a special right now that includes a senco brad nailer free with the framing nailer. I bought this same special 6 months ago and sold the brad nailer for $75.00 on ebay bringing my total cost to around $175.00
Senco makes some good stuff. We use their staplers and nailers in our manufacturing facility. They hold up better than the Stanelys we used to have. Cheaper to boot.
I own one of these that I got for $139. I've seen them now for $99. The parts are interchangeable with the Porter Cable nailer that is $237 at Sam's Club. I am 100% satisfied with it. I've built lots of fence, done home repairs, a tree house. I love it and have NO qualms recomending it.
This does not answer your question but INHO if you are building a deck = then nails are the wrong fasteners to use. Screws may be more expensive = but they will outlast nails by quite a bit. Puff
And you are right. I have built several decks with nails, did my own years ago with screws. A lot of difference. I would recommend checking with McFeely's for stainless steel screws, instead of galvanized. I've got some end rot in the redwood on my deck and will have to cut off bits of the rusted galvanized screws that helped cause the end rot before I can replace the floor boards. Damned stuff isn't much more than 15 years old, fer pete's sake!
Charlie Self "It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
Guy who did my deck (used Eco Decking material, a 100% plastic product) used SS McFeely's. Joked that the @#$%^ box of screws cost more than my entire deck!
Not that bad. Think about $181 and change for 1750 SS 2-1/2" x #10. And never, ever having a nail pop up or a screw rust and cause rot...course, with the eco decking, it can't rot, but you know what I mean. No rust streaks, either.
Charlie Self "It is not strange... to mistake change for progress." Millard Fillmore
How do you like the Eco Decking ? I looked at it for my Mothers new deck = but it seemed like the extra's, railing etc., would end up costing a = fortune. Puff
I was originally opposed to it - and was lobbying for redwood. But here in Colorado - doesn't matter what you use to stain/seal/protect the wood - you're looking at a yearly re-deaux if it's exposed to the sun. Never seen wood get beaten up so quickly as it does out here.
Trex, and the wood/plastic composites was considered but dismissed primarily because we put our grill on the deck. Grease stains come out of plastic, but not so easily from Trex. Also, Eco Deck holds it's color and doesn't grey/gray like Trex.
To keep costs down (and aesthetics up) we did only the deck floor in Eco. The rails, runners, stringers are cedar. The balusters are powder coated steel tubes. So only the small amount of cedar needs a every-two-or-every-three year freshening.
Other reason for expensive screws is that the installer noted that a third of the deck would be in sun, and the other 2/3rds in shade. Eco-deck expands significantly in the sun. Since it was an uneven exposure, he used some beefier Stainless Steel McFeely's to hold things in place. You can see the gaps disappear as the decking expands; and then reappear as the sun sets.
Balance the expense with the savings in maintenance - and I'm glad we went with it.
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