Any reason I shouldn't get a Performax 22-44?

[dadiOH]

Gee, I've never timed it. Not long...unhook from right end, pull off and roll up, unhook other end, hook first end of replacement, rotate drum while keeping tension on sanding strip until all wound, hook right end. Maybe a minute? Minute and a half?

A couple of other points...

1. If the one you are thinking of purchasing is like the 16-32 the left roll clamp is just a clamp but the right one is *also* a tensioner. It is easy to do, hard to explain but once the strip is wound on the drum you release the right clamp with one finger and - while holding the clamp open - shove the tapered roll end into the slot. Once in, move your finger horizontally clockwise (viewed from right side) and *THEN* release the clamp. If you just release the clamp the tensioner won't work, all is explained in the manual.

Additionally, the taper of the sanding strip needs to be such that it does NOT fill the takeup slot completely else the tensioner can't take up slack as the roll stretches.

1. When you get the sander it will probably have at least one cut sanding strip with it. When that strip wears out, don't throw it away...use it as a template to cut new ones.

1. There is no problem if there are gaps between spiral sections of the sanding strip on the drum; however, NEVER let the spiral ride up on itself else you will burn the wood and get a glazed area on the sanding strip. If that happens, don't throw the strip away, just sand stuff in another area of the strip.

2. When you change sanding rolls, get in the habit of rewinding what you are taking off in the opposite direction as it was when you wound it on. Next time you use it it will be wound on oppsite to the first time and - assuming you tend to sand in one area of the drum (I do) - wear on the strip will be equalized.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[David]

Great additional info! Thanks!

Dave

[Woody]

FYI, they've begun providing a new hook tool to facilitate changing paper on the Performax. It took me about 1 minute (maybe 2) to change grades on the 22-44. The hook tool hooks into a hole on the spring-loaded clamps that previously you had to use your fingers to compress.

I was really impressed with how solidly built the 22-44 is. I've heard Delta has had some serious quality problems with their sanders. In addition, the Performax seem to be the only ones that will adjust down to 1/16", critical if you want to make veneers. Some other clones I considered wouldn't reduce past 1/4".

~Mark.

[gw]

I recently got a 16-32, and it also came with "the hook". Handy tool. I can change grits in under a minute. The only trouble I have ever had is when trying to be too aggressive with finer grits.

[David]

Wood, if I'm not mistaken, the latest info on the 22-44 shows a min depth of 1/32". not owning one, I'm not sure if that's achievable...

Dave

[MrAnderson]

I'm not happy with my performax. It's the open ended model on a tripod. Changing the paper is an art and if not done right can burn a nasty groove into the piece. Height adjustment is not that precise and if the board hesitates the drum can sand a series of grooves into the piece.

I'm looking to upgrade to a unit that uses a belt.

[David]

thanks for the input.

I almost ordered the 22-44 but have decided to hold off after realizing I won't get everything I need for $1,200. There's a chance I'd be much happier with the pricier closed base model (no splayed out legs), and then the tables are $100, sandpaper to get started would be around $200, for a grand total of about $1,700; more than I'd anticipated.

Do you have the 16" wide or the 22"?

Dave

[dadiOH]

Couple of points...

1. It is soooooooo easy to make a table. Mine is 2x4s and particle board on casters, interior holds a ton of sanding related stuff...abrasives, belt sanders, orbital sanders, disc sanders, sanding blocks...some pieces of low pile carpet to but on the bench when I am hand sanding...etc.
2. The commercial tables aren't worth having, way too short. Believe me, you will need long infeed/outfeed tables if you ever want to sand anything of any length or weight...try sanding a 10' long X 10" wide piece of 8/4 oak without them. One of the nice things about Performax sanders is that the table is in a fixed position which means you can easily make extension tables.

I have tables (rollers, actually) on each side hinged to the stand. They will extend up to 5+', collapse to a length (about 30") that will fold down and hang at the sides of the stand when not needed. Cost maybe $10 to make both with scrap wood and 6 - 18" lengths of 1 1/2" PVC pipe.

1. If you are going to have a power sander - any sander - it needs abrasive; however you don't need 0 worth to get started.

-- dadiOH ____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at

[robo hippy]

I do occasionally have boards stall under the drum. My drive belt is worn, but I don't think that is the reason. Mostly it seems to be related to having the stuff from the sandpaper cleaning sticks and saw dust on the drive belt. I keep a foxtail handy to brush off most of the tailings. I have also.gotten into the habit of keeping a hand on the board until it is through the sander. This little extra pressure down prevents slipping. I think that the hold down rollers can be adjusted also. Once you get the hang of it, wrapping the paper is easy. When doing shorter pieces, I use a push stick. I make sure that it is thinner than the stock that I am pushing through. The only step up that I can see doing is one like where I take my bigger pieces to: 52 inch wide, 2 sanding belts, and an oscilating head on the end. I took a 36 wide by 84 long by 2 thick hickory top to them to sand. It took 15 minutes and cost $35. Drool!!!!!!!!!!!!!

robo hippy