Any carpenters here? (installing a handrail)

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On 2/9/2013 9:07 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

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Well, you can always go to a rail board and then it can cover any unwanted holes made to find the actual stud locations.
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On 2/9/2013 8:16 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

ALTERNATIBELY, Drill lots of holes to find your studs in a straight line even with where the rail will go.
Cover all of those holes up with a 1x4 piece of wood to match the hand rail, anchoring it to the studs you found. Mount your hand rail to the board you just used to cover the holes.
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Leon wrote:

Ah, the voice of experience :)
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On 2/9/2013 9:58 AM, Leon wrote:

Just a question of interest. Using sensitive thermal imaging equipment could you find the stud by the difference in temperature between the wall over the between studs and the wall over the studs?
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On 2/9/2013 9:14 AM, Keith Nuttle wrote:

Only if there is a differntial in temperature between the outside wall and inside wall.
IOW, in interior walls, IME, it will not show studs. BTDT
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On 2/9/2013 10:18 AM, Swingman wrote:

It will work, if one places a couple 500 watt flood lights (work lights) on one side. I've had the city engineer look at my walls for plumbing issues, using the same thermal imager now carried by most fire & police depts.
The city here carries an insurance policy on lateral sewer drain repairs which is charged in property taxes and thermal imaging is a very important means of assessing damage.
Better plumbing companies are now using thermal imaging to trace out hidden and below grade lines by simply running hot/cold water. But of course, there are always divining (dowsing) rods an sech! :-)
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On Sat, 09 Feb 2013 10:14:49 -0500, Keith Nuttle

How about renting a better radar-type stud finder at the local equipment rental place?
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Funny thing. That idea occurred to me today while I was thinking about something else. Delays really do increase the efficiency of my work sometimes. I am seriously considering using this method.
Swingman suggested a 1/16" bit to find the studs. But I'm worried that I may not have a sensitive enough "feel" for when I've hit a stud with such a small bit and through thick plaster and wood lath. But a decorative board to cover the holes seems pretty foolproof, which is exactly the sort of method I need. Thanks.
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On Sat, 9 Feb 2013 15:10:32 -0800 (PST), Greg Guarino

Drill with the 1/16 bit. 2 inched max depth. Sound the holes with a 3" pin. If it stops at 2", you are in a stud. If it goes farther than 2", you are not.
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On 2/9/2013 7:05 PM, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Yep, put a piece of masking tape on your drill bit at the two inch mark, plaster/metal lathe house here, with the metal the stud sensor is absolutely useless..
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On Sat, 09 Feb 2013 19:28:20 -0500, FrozenNorth

Depends on the sensor. I have one that is adjustable for wall density and it will pick up a 2X4 block on the back of a 2X4.. Adjusts for 1/2", 1" or 1 1/2" thick plaster walls. Doesn't really care too much about metal lath. Made by (or for) Stanley
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wrote in message wrote:

Drill with the 1/16 bit. 2 inched max depth. Sound the holes with a 3" pin. If it stops at 2", you are in a stud. If it goes farther than 2", you are not.
Brilliant idea. I may find this for use sometime. WW
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I agree. Simple and sure. I'll try it.
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As dadiOH mentioned, I have been there, although I used crown molding to hide an exterior wall alarm contact wire.
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On Saturday, February 9, 2013 6:16:55 AM UTC-8, Greg Guarino wrote:

If there is no insulation in the wall cavity, I've had luck with the follow ing procedure: Drill a 1/8" hole, bend a coat wire into two 90° angles (z shaped), inser t one leg into the hole and rotate the wire. When you hit a stud, the oute r identical leg, will show you where the edge of the stud is located. May require more than one hole.
Ivan Vegvary
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On 2/9/2013 9:16 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:

What's on the other side of that wall? Perchance a closet or hidden area behind a bed so that you can explore for a couple of studs and transfer your measurements to the other side.
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On 2/9/2013 10:52 AM, G.W.Ross wrote:

Can you get under the stairway to check for where the support is nailed?
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On 2/9/2013 9:52 AM, G.W.Ross wrote:

[snip]

Damn! You go, G.W.
Somebody build another box, so G.W. can think outside of it.
Two good suggestions! That's why I love this group. There ALWAYS seems to be another way to do something and, if there is, you'll read it here.
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By eye. The studs might be high enough that you can see them against a back light. A desk lamp is the only tool you need.
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"Leon" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------ To expand on Leon's idea a bit, the object is to provide a secure railing to a plastered wall with unknown stud locations.
Rather than use a 1x4, use a 1x8 oak board attached to the wall with two rows of 1/4" molly boats on 8" centers.
The board provides the structure to mount the rail while also spreading the rail load across a larger surface thus reducing the load any specific molly carries.
Lew
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