Another Glue Post

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I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time. Have you gone with a longer assembly time with TBIII?
Should I use something else other than TBIII with a longer open time? I'm not actually sure how long this glue up will take me, but I want to be sure I have enough time. I would rather not do the glue up in stages.
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Stoutman
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That's 9 slats and 2 rails. Oops. The rails are floating tenons so more glue time will be needed for both sides.
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Stoutman
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I had 13 bar clamps in use a few weeks ago. I was gun shy and was wanting a second set of hands. Well I used Titebond II Extend which is a white glue and just my hands. Some of the glue started to dry out because I was glueing oak to oak veneer plywood. Actually I gues it was not so much drying out as being absorbed and sealing the plywood. I just applied a bit more. No problems but I do not know how long it took me to apply glue and then clamp everything. If you have dry fitted the whole assembly and you see no issues then you are probably ok. Since you are working with real wood you should have less issues than I did. I bet I spent more than 10 minutes applying glues to 20+ bisquits.
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"Stoutman" wrote:
> I have a complicated glue up to do tonight (9 slats and 4 rails). I was > going to use Titebond III which states "longer open assembly time" on the > bottle. If you go to there webpage it states 10 minutes for assembly time.
When you get tired of screwing around, epoxy with a slow hardener or rescorcinal.
Lew
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You will be lucky to get the full 10 minutes from TitebondIII in my experience ... more like 7 minutes.
TiteBond II Extend will give you about 15 minutes and is good down to 40 degrees F. If you rehearse with a timer, you can get a lot done in 15 minutes.
If you need longer than that, Weldwood plastic resin is probably as good as any, IME.
Break your glue-up into sub-assemblies and it should not be that complicated.
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Last update: 2/07/07
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allot longer than 10 minutes! Greg
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I've used PU glue also when I've needed longer assembly times - the bottle claims 1/2 hr working time. I haven't pushed it to 30 minutes, but that should be more than enough for most things. I've heard varying opinions on its strength and longevity, but it's worked fine for me so far. Andy
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Greg wrote:
> How about Gorilla glue? I don't know what set up time is but it is sure > allot longer than 10 minutes!
IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market, especially when good epoxy is available.
Ranks right up there with Hadacol, but at least Hadacol was a pretty good proof product as I remember my dad telling me.
Lew
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"How about Gorilla glue? " "IMHO, the most overpriced, under peckered product in the market, especially when good epoxy is available"
Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of glue have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no give once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when dry and is gap filling. It is the only thing I have found that will hold our son's wooden dining room chairs together thru the winter heating season. Gorilla Glue also seems to be working holding my 1" sanding belts together when the splice comes apart, no flex to Epoxy Glue and other glues I have tried did not hold.
Walt Conner
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"WConner" wrote in message

If you need gap filling, use an epoxy ... GG simply won't do it with any strength.
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WConner wrote:
> Well while it is true that Gorilla Glue is overpriced, both types of glue > have their place. For example, Epoxy is strong, dries hard leaving no give > once dry while Gorilla Glue is strong WILL have some give to it when dry and > is gap filling.
If you need to fill gaps, add some micro-balloons to the epoxy.
Gorilla glue or equal has absolutely no gap filling strength.
Trust me, if I used epoxy on your son's chairs, the wood would return to compost before the epoxy joint failed.
Lew
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Or to the Gorilla?
Or other reinforcement like sawdust?

Give it some backbone.
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wrote:

In the sense that it will put foam in a gap it is gap filling. In the sense of filling a gap and having any structural strenght across the gap it's another story.

Have you tried a flexibilized epoxy such as G2?

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I use Gorilla glue once in a while. It is convenient and does what I need it to do. Sure epoxy would be better, but for the little I would use I will just buy the small bottles of Gorilla. Generally I use Titebond or some equal. Stoutman was looking for longer setup time and Gorilla fits the need, and is readily available and simple to use. Greg
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I've had a bottle of Gorilla glue for about three years. Can't seem to find a reason to use it. Titebond or epoxy has always done everything I needed.

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If you have opened that bottle you may want to throw it away.
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Never opened. Never found the need.

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snipped-for-privacy@earthlink.net says...

Odd. I pay about the equivalent of 7 US$ per cartridge for GorillaGrip. (this is not the same, but similar to Gorilla Glue - MUCH stronger i.m.e.) I pay around twice that for a liter bottle of 'weatherproof' pva. Dont get me started on prices for epoxy: the sky's the limit.
heh, regional differences maybe ?!?
As for under-peckered: I've been using UF glues for ~23 years, starting with aerolite 308. I have yet to see a failure. Works for me. But I am suspicious of the red Gorilla Glue that comes in little handyman tubes - I think that's nowhere near as strong (only ever used it once though).
-P.
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says...

GorillaGrip: 20-25 minutes in moderate temps and very high humidity (lower humidity may extend open time for moisture curing UF glues a.f.a.i.k.)
Unfortunately it works much better on straight glue-ups than in mortise/tenon and/or bisquit joint situations.
-Peter
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I like Weldbond or 30 minute epoxy when I need more time.
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