Another day like yesterday and I 'll sell all my equipment!

[skeezics]

as far as the sloped side all you need is a miter box. set up some stop blocks on the miter saw as you would for crown molding. whatever angle you want will work. you set it up so the wood sits at an angle and only have to cut 45's just as you would cut crown on a standard miter saw. this saves all the figuring of angles. i have a compound miter saw BUT i almost never set it on a bevel. instead i use one of my standard miter saws. the compound saw collects dust most of the time. its not that i cant figure out the angles its mostly because its easier to do it the old fasioned way for me. skeez

[Bay Area Dave]

actually, 45 degrees won't work. the correct angle is somewhere between

44 and 45. I've tried several tries, but end up with gaps due to incorrect bevel angle...

I didn't have near this much trouble when doing crown molding! :)

dave

[e-mail] wrote:

[skeezics]

????????????? is this a square box with beveled sides or a trapazoid with beveled side? check the accuracy of your miter saw. sounds like something is amiss there. also check to see that all sides are the correct length. coresponding sides must be exactly the same length. if all is right with the world i assure you 45's will work..... and then sometimes life just sucks!!!!!!!!!!! skeez

[Bay Area Dave]

it's rectangular, but just like crown molding, because the sides are angled (12 degrees) a 45 isn't quite correct for the bevel. and 44 isn't gonna do it either. :) believe me the saw is accurate. check the owners manual, page 13 for the 705. there are 3 arcs drawn across a chart. the top arc is for square boxes with sloping sides. 90 minus 12 is 78. find 78 on the top arc and it corresponds with about 44.3 or thereabouts. The trick is to read the bevel scale to that degree of accuracy when you are setting the bevel angle on the saw. there's no margin for error for a tight joint...sigh

dave

[e-mail] wrote:

[Robert Bonomi]

That is *if* you're laying the stock flat.

Make a jig that holds the stock to the 12 degree angle, and *then* cut with the saw at 45 degrees.

It's just like either: cutting crown moldings with the molding laying flat, and the 'funny' angles, or propping the molding up at the actual angle it will be at on the wall, and cutting it 'square' (i.e. 45 degree angle)

The two methods *are* equivalent. Fudge the saw to 'funny' angles to compensate for the different (simple/sane) orientation of the board, or hold the board at the 'appropriate' "funny angle", and cut to the 'intuitive' (aka sane/simple) angles.

[GeeDubb]

I was just typing practically the same thing when I thought I'd better read some more replies. Good info Robert.

Gary