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Aluminium Saw Table Top

Reply to
Lawrence A. Ramsey
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More than say, puss?

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

No shit, Shinola?

it's a polymer of oxygen and silicon. it's not

Some waxes contain silicone ... and that fact is the reason for this discussion.

Reply to
Swingman

Another good reason to keep the stuff out of the shop... DD

"It's easy when you know how..." Johnny Shines

Reply to
David DeCristoforo

it's not shit or shinola either.

that would be a blend of wax and silicone. this is a common thing in automotive polishes, but even there imho it's a bad idea.

paste wax- all or mostly caranauba with no silicone- is (as has been pounded in this thread) an excellent treatment for sliding surfaces on woodworking machines Bridger

Reply to
nospam

Glad you could clear that up ... not many have enough experience with both to tell the difference.

Really? ... don't look now, but that is EXACTLY what we've been saying throughout this thread in response to George saying not use any wax for that purpose.

Guess you just made it official, eh?

Reply to
Swingman

Me? For sliding and bearing surfaces I'm a paraffin (a hard wax, not kerosene Jeff) man myself.

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

I'm thinking what Bridge is thinking is what a dick you are.

I'm thinking what Bridge is thinking is probably right.

Then again, it could be just me.

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

I was helping with either a C or D check on a DC-8. One of my tasks was a write up or time change cargo door seal. Apparently the seal had been well out of reg for an amount of time. It had been doctored along with at least one, probably two tubes of silicone.

The door skin had suffered damage requiring blending, prep and prime. Probably from what took out the door seal.

There was nothing I could do to get rid of the silicone. And I had access to some nasty shit.

QC couldn't/ wouldn't pass the repair with fish eye.

I gave it my best for that shift.

I think they wound up sending it to paint or structures.

I didn't like the stuff much before this, hated it since.

To be fair to silicone, it's more the idiots who are using it that cause problems. I've found the clear crap on engine soft plugs holding the cam in.

The stuffs great for fish tanks and caulking, keep it away from about everything else.

Reply to
Mark

Well now, I wouldn't say that...

djb

Reply to
Dave Balderstone

You guys didn't have any "anti-fisheye" stuff?

This stuff is actually MORE silicone, which allows the fisheye to become one large fisheye. Of course, once you use it, you need to use it all the time in that spray gear.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y B u r k e J r .

You'd do better _reading_ than "thinking".

Reply to
Swingman

I dunno.... Parraffin -the candle wax stuff- seems to me like it would hold sawdust better than caranauba. when I was a hammer swingin' house builder in southern california I'd put a heavy coat of beeswax (a little softer than parraffin) on my hammer handle to make it less slippery. I'd put a thin coat of it on plane soles to make them more slippery. it did both fine, and a block of beeswax was easier to carry around than a tin of paste wax and the associated rags and such. the hammer handle I didn't care how much dust it trapped. now, the plane makes shavings, not dust, and the layer was very slight. I never had a problem with the wax getting dirty. these days I work mostly in the shop. I use caranauba on plane soles and that seems to work fine also. and if I'm driving a bunch of nails, it's with a nail gun.

as far as saw table tops, I've been using caranauba all along. never tried parraffin... but if it works there like it does on a plane sole it should be fine. It does seem though like it would be more trouble than caranauba to apply evenly to a large surface like that. do you dissolve it in a solvent or melt it on or sumpin? and how would you say the two compare as far as protecting the iron from rust?

has anyone else here soaked iron in linseed oil prior to waxing it? Bridger

Reply to
nospam

um.... no.

it isn't just you.

Bridger

Reply to
nospam

While not as totally irrelevant as your "Silicone is NOT wax" remark was, I'll take the same condescending high road as you did and point out that it's properly carnauba, NOT "caranauba".

Reply to
Swingman

Laugh you *@%$)@*!

A friend use to do bodywork on old cars.

He could not get rid of fisheye on the window frame of an old car. Seems the owner used silicone rubber dressing on the window seals. I'm left to wonder about all the fools who used silicone based car 'waxes'.

The best anti silicone story was told me by the owner of Youngstown Spray Equipment. Yo Spray installed a paint line for a customer. Shortly after the line started fisheye started showing up in the finish. The problem was traced to a mechanic using a spray lubricant in the mechanics shop where the air compressor was kept. The story goes the mechanic used the lube only a few times but once it was sucked into the compressor the air system was contaminated.

Reply to
Mark

not always. try:

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Reply to
nospam

Yabbut, check out the first four words on your reference page: "Did you mean: carnauba? " ... that's a pretty damn sure google sign of a misspelled/wrong search word.

In any event, close enough for a woodworking forum . everything else is just c*ck-a-doodle-doo.

Reply to
Swingman

Yes ma,am.

UA100, who always _obeys_ the nuns...

Reply to
Unisaw A100

Bridger:

For surfaces like saw tops I scribble it on like a crayon. Miter slots just get it rubbed up and down the channel a couple/few times. Trunnions get a good scribbling where I can and then I work the mechanism back and forth (to and fro David).

What ends up happening is, those tiny little spots where iron isn't meeting iron (as in the case of parts moving against each other) get filled in a little with the paraffin to the point where, well , it's a filler and it slickens things up.

Um, I, well, I have to, well, OK, I LIVE ON THE EDGE OF LAKE MICHIGAN WITH THE GULF STREAM AT MY BACK! THERE IS NO HUMIDITY! (1)

It also helps that I have a sealed (concrete) floor in the shop and I do run a dehumidifier during the months of

*higher* humidity.

I'd need something the size of a wading pool for my saw top.

(1) Now some local who was born and raised here will lie and say there is. To that I say, New Orleans.

UA100

Reply to
Unisaw A100

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