Aluminium Saw Table Top

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Should one wax an aluminum table top? Or is there another recommended treatment?
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RedEd asks:

If the aluminum is anodized, it shouldn't need corrosion-proofing. But if it's not, aluminum has a particularly nasty black form of corrosion (surface only: if left alone, it won't keep corroding like ferrous metals). And many of the aluminum table tops I've seen could use a little help in the slickness department.
So, on balance, I'd wax.
Charlie Self
"Say what you will about the ten commandments, you must always come back to the pleasant fact that there are only ten of them." H. L. Mencken
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No saw should ever be waxed, the absolute worst thing you can do to the saw table top.

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George M. Kazaka wrote:

I look up.
I see the hook.
The sunlight makes a shiny star right on the point.
Knowing better, and knowing that little star means a barb at the end I still ask,
sigh...
Why?
UA100, fully realizing George has the throttle set for troll, just like to see if he can play out line and finesse setting the hook...
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Hi! Do not BITE! It is a trap- pretty little thing just tempting you into a trap.
wrote:

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The wax can transfer to your wood, then when you apply the finish Oh my what fum we will have.
Years ago when they didn't have some of the spray stuff that they have now during the damp periods we had to steel wool the4 machine tops every morning some wood spray a coat of lacquer that in a busy shop did not last to long But wax was an all time no no,
I know that some here on the rec do it and advise others to do it, I was expecting to get flamed from what i said
Well hell the day isn't over yet is it.
But glad you asked George

saw
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With lure firmly fixed in mouth ... Never had a problem with that as long as I used a wax with no silicone content. However, a little judicious sanding, as you so strongly recommended in a previous thread, IIRC, should set things right.
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Touche, But why take the chance ?????

as
sanding,
things
now
long
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I agree with you, George ... once you've seen/dealt with "fisheye" from silicone, you want no part of it contaminating your wood. I use mostly TopCote the past couple of years, but using Johnson Paste Wax on tool surfaces has never posed a remote problem in that regard.
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silicone is NOT wax. it's a polymer of oxygen and silicon. it's not even a lipid. no carbon in it. silicone should never come near a wood shop....     Bridger
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snipped-for-privacy@cox.net wrote:

Silicone should not come near anything.
I hate the stuff with a passion.
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N.E. Ohio
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Mark wrote:

More than say, puss?
UA100
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Unisaw A100 wrote:

I was helping with either a C or D check on a DC-8. One of my tasks was a write up or time change cargo door seal. Apparently the seal had been well out of reg for an amount of time. It had been doctored along with at least one, probably two tubes of silicone.
The door skin had suffered damage requiring blending, prep and prime. Probably from what took out the door seal.
There was nothing I could do to get rid of the silicone. And I had access to some nasty shit.
QC couldn't/ wouldn't pass the repair with fish eye.
I gave it my best for that shift.
I think they wound up sending it to paint or structures.
I didn't like the stuff much before this, hated it since.
To be fair to silicone, it's more the idiots who are using it that cause problems. I've found the clear crap on engine soft plugs holding the cam in.
The stuffs great for fish tanks and caulking, keep it away from about everything else.
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Mark

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wrote:

You guys didn't have any "anti-fisheye" stuff? <G>
This stuff is actually MORE silicone, which allows the fisheye to become one large fisheye. Of course, once you use it, you need to use it all the time in that spray gear.
Barry
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B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:

Laugh you *@%$)@*!
<s>
A friend use to do bodywork on old cars.
He could not get rid of fisheye on the window frame of an old car. Seems the owner used silicone rubber dressing on the window seals. I'm left to wonder about all the fools who used silicone based car 'waxes'.
The best anti silicone story was told me by the owner of Youngstown Spray Equipment. Yo Spray installed a paint line for a customer. Shortly after the line started fisheye started showing up in the finish. The problem was traced to a mechanic using a spray lubricant in the mechanics shop where the air compressor was kept. The story goes the mechanic used the lube only a few times but once it was sucked into the compressor the air system was contaminated.
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No shit, Shinola?
it's a polymer of oxygen and silicon. it's not

Some waxes contain silicone ... and that fact is the reason for this discussion.
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it's not shit or shinola either.

that would be a blend of wax and silicone. this is a common thing in automotive polishes, but even there imho it's a bad idea.
paste wax- all or mostly caranauba with no silicone- is (as has been pounded in this thread) an excellent treatment for sliding surfaces on woodworking machines     Bridger
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wrote in message

from
Glad you could clear that up ... not many have enough experience with both to tell the difference.

Really? ... don't look now, but that is EXACTLY what we've been saying throughout this thread in response to George saying not use any wax for that purpose.
Guess you just made it official, eh?
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Swingman wrote:

I'm thinking what Bridge is thinking is what a dick you are.
I'm thinking what Bridge is thinking is probably right.
Then again, it could be just me.
UA100
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Well now, I wouldn't say that...
djb
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