I'm looking to add some trim to my bookcase for decorative purposes to
pretty things up. My question is how to attach the trim the carcass - just
glue or glue and finish nails?
If finish nails, any advice on using them without a power/air nailer? I
think I've heard to drill pilot holes (using an actual nail as the bit).
Pilot holes through the trim and into the carcass?
I would use only glue, with masking tape to hold/clamp the trim in
place until the glue dries. Nail holes are a PITA to fill & hide.
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
One good method for gluing is to use regular wood glue (your choice) and to
leave some spots unglued for a drop of hot melt. The hot melt holds pretty
tight until the regular wood glue sets up and you have to rely a lot less on
tape and clamps.
And Titebond makes a moulding glue (maybe $4 for 8 oz bottle) for just this
Why a special glue? It doesn't run. It dries clear and rubbery, so if you
miss the squeeze out, you can trim it off within 24 hrs. It sticks
quickly, but allows adjustment. And it cleans up with water.
I like the hot melt idea, if you have one available.
Nail the trim, glue miters. Use brad nails and a drill bit the same
size as the brads. If the book case is made from solid wood, gluing
the trim won't work.Solid wood expands and contracts with the seasons.
If the case is made from man made panels ,plywood or mdf then you can
glue the trim.
On 7 Nov 2004 07:28:52 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org (mike) wrote:
Mounting the trim to sliding dovetail tracks that are screwed to the
carcase is a nice way to attach moldings to solid pieces. The
moldings are glued at the front, where the miters are, but are free to
slide as the side moves.
It's actually pretty easy to do as well, with a dovetail bit and
I'll bet you could do it now, if you have even a really basic router
table and some scrap to mess around with.
The "track" gets made as a stock molding, with one pass on each side
with a dovetail bit to shape it. Routing the slot in the molding is
only slightly more difficult. A scrap section of molding is used to
align the tracks.
Okay, I was all set to just go with the glue based on the intitial
suggestions that glue only will do the trick (with the tip of hot glue to
hold the trim in place while the glue dries). Now a couple say the shifts
in wood require brads.
The bookcase is made of red oak. So any other votes or change of votes on
using nails as well as glue? I have a feeling the wife is going to want the
piece stained and I hear that staining with nail holes puttied in doesn't
work very well.
Are the sides solid red oak, or red oak plywood?
If the sides are solid, I would not glue the entire length of molding
in place. I would apply glue at the front, near the miter, with a
brad or two towards the rear. The glue will hold the molding tightly
near the miter, so that it dosen't open, while the brads will allow a
tiny bit of movement as the sides ever so slightly change width
through the seasons.
If the sides are red oak plywood, I'd glue the whole molding in place.
Using tape, hot glue, or brads to hold it in place is subject to
religious debate here. You can make the choice. <G>
To make sure I understand, I'm going to have a front and two side pieces of
trim. Are you saying to glue all three pieces near the miters, and nail a
brad towards the rear of the side pieces and no brads on the front piece?
I'll see if I can convey my understanding with a little schematic (B brads, G = glue).
think of it like this: if the trim molding and the solid wood face
it's attached to have grain running the same direction you can fasten
them solidly together with glue. if they have grain running at 90
degrees to each other you'd better use a connection that allows
Chances are, the front piece (G-G) has grain running in the same
direction as the molding. If so that part can be glued all the way
The side moldings (B-G) need to be glued at the mitered intersections
and nailed towards the back. This firmly holds the miter together,
while allowing the side to expand and contract. If the area near the
miter was not glued, the movement of the side could pull the miter
open, making the joint ugly.
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