Advice on wall mounting mirrorq


I am building a framed mirror for a bathroom that will be about 36" x 48". Think of a flat panel door with the mirror in place of the panel. So the mirror will be surrounded by 2.5" rails and stiles made out of cherry.
This will be pretty heavy. Any suggestions on how this might be mounted flush on the wall? I'm momentarily stumped.
I suppose I could counter bore screws in the rails and stiles that drive into wall studs and then plug the holes after mounting. I hate that idea however.
Thanks.
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I have about that same size mirror hanging in bathroom and I wouldn't consider it extremely heavy.
It would seem to me that you could use your router to cut some slots on the backside of the stiles and then drive a screw into the stud and then hang it using the slots with a washer on the screw to give you the bite you need to carry the weight.
Probably did a piss poor job describing it but I can picture it clearly in my mind!
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Define "pretty heavy". You can get picture hangers rated for up to 100 lbs (i.e. 200 lbs a pair). I can't imagine this is going to weigh more than that.
http://www.ooks.com/cart/viewitem.cfm?ItemIDP027&UserID=-75304447
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on 6/24/2005 2:03 PM Jerry said the following:

I have seen the equivalent of a French cleat, only in metal. Again, as someone else pointed out, you could recess the frame to accomodate this or just make part of the frame around the edge, a bit deeper, and hang the mirror using this. When all is said and done the mirror and frame would appear to be screwed right into the wall yet all it would take would be a simple lifting motion to remove it from the French cleat and take it down.
Other than that, I think you're going to be stuck with that idea you hate.<g>
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Yes, you are right, the weight isn't too bad. I like the idea of using a cleat. Either the screw/washer or wood cleat.
I have to make sure it has a reasonable chance it will stay up in a moderate earthquake. Since the swarm of earthquakes last week, my wife is making me strap up all furniture and pictures.
Thanks for the ideas.
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I did a similar mirror, albeit oak rather than cherry. I used a keyhole bit and plunge router to make keyholes on the back of the stiles and hung the mirror frame from those.
scott
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Perfect. Think I try that. Thanks!
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The idea of the routing keyholes on the stiles is a good one, but how do you ensure that the keyholes line up with studs in the wall? It would seem that unless one crafted the mirror of a specific size so that the stiles coincided exactly with the existing wall studs, then the mirror would have to be supported by drywall only. Perhaps, I don't fully understand the keyhole thing.
Recently, I made a bathroom mirror of similar size using maple (rather than cherry). To hang the mirror, I fixed a steel bar from stile to stile across the back. To ensure that the mirror hang close to the wall, I mortised the bar (about 48" long x 1" wide x 1/8" thick) and screwed it into back of the frame. To hang the mirror, I drove a row of pan head screws into the studs on which the bar is rested. The screw heads hook to the bar and should you need to adjust the mirror from side to side, it can be slid along the screws.

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Drywall anchors.
scott
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Most houses have studs on 16" centers. You make the keyholes on 16" centers also. Depending on the frame size, find the center and then cut them 8" out from center. If the mirror is offset, just offset the keyholes, or use drywall anchors made for that purpose.
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http://hardware.hardwarestore.com/28-119-misc-hangers/2-hole-flat-keyhole-hanger--620064.aspx
QUICK AND EASY!

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