ONLY if you are working with stock 2 or 3" thick and about the same width. Forget it for normal width boards.
ONLY if you are working with stock 2 or 3" thick and about the same width. Forget it for normal width boards.
One reason to do it is to remove roughly equal amounts of stock from each side of the board. In theory, this can mitigate some later movement.
-Steve
A jointer is used to make 1 edge perpendicular to the other (given the fence is set at 90') Joint the face flat - then put that edge against the fence - then joint the edge.
Then run it thru the planer to get the faces parallel then thru the tablesaw to get the edges parallel.
Your kidding, right?
Nice theory, but here's an guaranteed more accurate method to accomplish it:
1.) Joint ONE face flat. 2.) Put the jointed face down, as the board goes into a thickness planer.After a pass or three, you can now alternate which face the planer cuts. This will remove wood from both sides and keep the faces parallel. Plane, flip, plane, flip, etc...
Barry
I agree with you when I've got to remove more thickness from a board when surface planing, than what came off at the jointer. Then I'll flip the board over and surface plane the jointed face to even out material removed from both sides. If I've jointed off "x" thickness with the jointer, and then I'm going to plane off "x" thickness, there's no need to plane both faces.
Dave
This is exactly what happened to my boards. They were slightly pyramid shaped.
Thanks for all you advise. I guess I need a planer.
You "can" get parallel faces without a planer, but it requires more skill than most of us have and more work than the rest are willing to put out. Once you have a planer you'll wonder how you ever got along without it.
DonkeyHody "Don't ever wrestle with a pig. You'll both get muddy, but the pig likes it."
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