Hello Group, I have minimal knowledge on proper jointer use so I want to get some advice from those who use them a lot.
1.Do you adjust your fence according to the width of the board so that only the minimum about of cutterhead is exposed? Or,
No, the cutterhead guard covers the rest of the exposed cutterhead.
Yes
No, not while doing a project. I move it forward when the blade starts getting dull from the edge jointing. After a few moves of the fence, the blades need to be sharpened.
Hello Frank (and others) I mistated that first question. I know that the guard covers the cutterhead but what I meant to ask is that the fence be set back just wide enough to allow only enough cutterhead for the width of the board. Marc
No, you can use it all the way back, or partly forward so you are using a sharper part of the knives. The only time you would set it to fit your work is if you were using it to cut rabbets, if your jointer will do that.
I set the fence for max width. If one were always jointing edges excusively, they could move the fence forward periodically to place "fresh" edges near the fence. I do face jointing along with edge jointing, so that's why I leave the fence set back all the way. I leave about 1/8-1/16" of the blade under the fence.
dave
I second what Dave and others have said.
Also, DON'T WEAR A NECKTIE when jointing! ;-)
What's a necktie? I have not worn a collared shirt in at least 6 years and, except for a few rock and roll performers, not too many people look "credible" wearing a necktie and a t-shirt.
Marc (who makes a feeble apology for this slightly off topic and weakly humorus reply)
Putting on a tie is the first step in my shaving ritual.
Yes. When I want the jointer wide as a planer, I set it right back. When I want it as a jointer, I move the fence randomly to a suitable position. I never deliberately move the fence around to even out wear, but if I'm moving the fence anyway, I try to even things up a bit.
I also use a UK jointer with an adjustable (but not sprung) "bridge" guard. This is set up before making the cut, but doesn't move on a spring as I pass the timber through it. It means that I tend to be making a small adjustment before different operations anyway.
Actually, you want to vary the fence setting so that you distribute the wear on the knives across the entire cutter. If you primarily edge joint, say
4/4 stock, and leave the fence in one place you get a dull strip where you run the wood through, and the rest ofthe blades are still sharp.HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.