Advice on a good jointer needed

Looking for some advice from my fellow wood workers:
I'd like to get a jointer for my shop, but I really don't have tons of room or money to do so. I'm thinking of the Delta JT360 stand jointer. Can anyone give me some advice as to this jointer and where I might get it for a good price?
Basically I'm looking for a jointer that can mostly edge boards (I already have a nice planer) and be under $500 total cost, $350-$400 would be even better. But it has to be able to edge 6-8' boards.
Thanks,
Carl snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com
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This may help........
http://tinyurl.com/2lkwo
or the long version
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/woodmall/templates/woodMallReviewPage.jhtml?tool=woodmall/toolreview/135sixinchjointers
Bob S.
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On 21 May 2004 12:55:48 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Carl Swanson) wrote:

Are you unable to see the many good replies to your question posted this morning? Look into Grizzly, nice machines at a fair price.
Zeke
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I'll repost:
Hi, I have the Yorkcraft 6" jointer from Wilke Machinery, www.wilkemach.com I love it, no problems what so ever. Paid $299 + shipping.
Tony
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Hi Carl, Your planer is used after you have joined a side and an edge. If you get a 6" joiner you are limited to boards 6" or less. This is not normally much of a handicap but for those larger boards an 8" is nice. Cheers, JG
Carl Swanson wrote:

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While an 8" jointer would certainly be nice, a 6" jointer is not limited to boards of 6" width. I have done boards up to 10" wide on my 6" jointer simply by turning the board 180. It's not perfect but it gets the board flat enough so it can be put through your planer. I believe one of the ww sites has a video or an on line tutorial that shows how to do this - safely.
Being an amateur wood-hacker I would find it difficult to justify the expense of a decent 8" jointer and have not done a project yet where my 6" Jet jointer wasn't up to the task.
Bob S.

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Thanks. I needed that. = A friend is someone who knows the song in your heart and can sing it back to you when you have forgotten the words.
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What about grain direction?
Barry
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One would assume you have removed the guard, or do you remove the fence and hang the board off that side?
How much tearout do you tend to get with the 180 reversal being against the grain.
Alan
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With sharp blades and slow feed, nearly none. Certainly no more than one pass on the planer can handle.
You _have_ noticed that a lot of species feature grain reversals in the same board?

to
board
ww
safely.
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Exactly as George stated. I have my infeed table set to take only .015" (15 thou) off per pass. That seems to be an optimized setting that I can live with and works well for the woods I've been working with - maple, walnut, white and red oak as well as poplar, pine and cherry.
If there is a lot of grain reversal, on the last couple of passes, I'll dampen the board lightly with a wet cloth or sponge, wait 15-30 seconds then make the final pass or two on the planer. If I still get tearout, then I resort to the Performax sander.
Bob S.

same
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Remove the guard and use push blocks.
Bob S.
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Part 4 of "Get Straight with Crooked Wood" by Shane Shaunesy addresses jointing boards that are wider than the jointer blades. A reprint of the article is available on the Woodcraft web site at <http://www.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/Jointer.asp .
Cheers,
Lowell
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com says...

Shoot here is the URL for Sunhill!! http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/Jointers%20CT60L.htm
-bill
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Not sure what happened to my 1st post but, I like my 6" sunhill. New news reader!!!It was about $425 i think with shipping and an extra set of knives and a dust port. The nice thing is it has a 52" bed so you can joint longer stock on it. So far it's been a reliable machine. I've had it for about 4 months now. No real problems.
good luck on your search.
here is the URL again: http://www.sunhillmachinery.com/Jointers%20CT60L.htm
-Bill
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com says...

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