Adjustments on an old Sears RAS, and table?


I picked up an old Sear RAS at an estate auction. I know it is old because it came with 4 steel blades. It is the same model as: http://cgi.ebay.com/Sears-Craftsman-Radial-Arm-Saw_W0QQitemZ4405658283QQcategoryZ632QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Anyhow, there are a few things I can't figure out about it.
1) How does the yoke pivot (for ripping) work? There is a large chrome lever, but moving that doesn't free it up. Is there something else, or is it just stuck. I don't plan on ever ripping on it, but would like to know how to.
2) There is a rod coming out of the left side, going up past the arm, with a plastic knob on the end of it. Turning it doesn't seem to do anything. What is that for?
3) The table is partially missing, so I guess I will have to make a fence. I really only want it to do cross cuts. Any advice on making a fence for that? (assume I know absolutely nothing about RASs.
4) In researching this, I found the darn thing has been recalled! It cannot be fixed, so Emerson will take the saw part back and send me $100. That would give me a $15 profit, but I kinda wanted the saw and it seems to work fine. Since I don't plan on ever ripping with it(that is what the recall was for) the defect doesn't seem to matter. Should I take the $15 and look for another? Is whats left after sending the saw part back of any use, or is it just scrap then?
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There's probably a locking pin somewhere. You might try pulling _up_ on that knob on the side... Tom
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http://cgi.ebay.com/Sears-Craftsman-Radial-Arm-Saw_W0QQitemZ4405658283QQcategoryZ632QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Go get the model number. Someone undoubtedly has the same one.
Or, start here. http://www.owwm.com/MfgIndex/Detail.asp?ID "2
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Toller wrote: (snip)

Same answer for both questions. After you move the chrome lever (called the Yoke Clamp), pull UP on the mystery knob. It will latch back into place for in-rip and out-rip positions of the carriage.

Do you have both of the clamps? These are basically thumb screws which clamp the fence (along with some filler pieces) to the fixed table. I have the same saw with all of the original parts. The fence is nothing more than a straight piece of 1x2 clamped against the table. Once you see how this goes, you'll quickly see several ways to improve the fence to your liking.

Don't bother with the recall. That's a nice saw and it's as safe as any RAS for crosscutting if it's used properly. I've ripped on this saw and it's not a scary operation, but it's not nearly as easy as a tablesaw. If you have the space, it's real damn handy to have the RAS always waiting around for a perfect 90 degree crosscut. I even move mine for miters and back to 90 with decent results, but I'll admit that my work of late does not require absolute perfection. It just saves time if I don't have to change a setup on the table saw for a simple crosscut.
The model number is 113.29440. Go to http://www3.sears.com/ and you can still order parts for it. The exploded view will help you figure out the fence and table. You can probably order the manual as well or download it from the OWWM site. If not, I'll mail you a copy. It has detailed instructions on adjustment etc.
Tom
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That did it, thanks. Emerson will send me a manual.
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=================I agree aboiut Not taking advantage of the RECALL...
There is absolutely nothing wrong with this RAS... The recall was to IMPROVE the design of the blade guard (Saftey Issue ..in the eyes of the Legal Boys at Emerson I guess...)...
I have not ripped anything with my RAS in over 30 years...just not as easy as using my Tablesaw... and I have not moved the arm to cut a miter in almost as long... I just made a few adjustable jigs that attach to the fence to produce 45 and 22 1/2 degree cuts....my most common miters...
I use my RAS 99 percent of the time as a cut off saw...and yes I do have to adjust it every year or two to a perfect 90 degree cut but its not a bid deal..
I topped my "stock" table with two pieces of " 1/4 in good looking plywood...that I coated with semi gloss poly and insert a 2 inch wide sacrificial piece of hardboard between these 2 pieces of plywood... saves the table from getting cut up...and when it does I just slip in another 2 inch wide piece of hardwood... Plywood was added to my saw in the early 70's and still works and looks like new...
85 Bucks is not a great price BUT by no means a bad price since you can always send it back under the recall for 100 bucks...
Now spend another 100 and buy a GREAT Blade ...
Enjoy Bob G.
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I saw one advertised today for $40 that was subject to recall, and thought about buying it just to send back; but decided there had to be something unethical about that.
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