adjustable shelf supports suggestions wanted

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for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable shelf support to use?
The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
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OK, how about pins?
UA100
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Unisaw A100 wrote:

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On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

I like drilling 1 1/2" holes in a strip, ripping it in half, and gluing it inside the case. A moving support is the fashioned to fit into the slots between the 1/2 circles. The shelf sits on the support.
Barry
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On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 01:42:00 -0700, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

How about metal rail with clips ? I've seen one system that used a narrow, deep channel-section rail that went into a groove and wasn't visible from the front. Don't know where it came from though.
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I generally use the slotted metal rails that I put into a routed channel, but if this is what you're say will not work, then how about a little more information. A better description of the project would be helpful, as would the reasons why various solutions would be inappropriate.
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the rails are out because I have already glued up the sides/tops and installed the back ;-) I suppose I could route a groove but it would be offset from the back by the router baseplate.
it's a very basic bookshelf, 48 high, 36 wide, 9 deep
from 2x pine building lumber, but selected for clear stock
basically it was a honey-do project that I chose to try out my biscuit jointer, bandsaw (to resaw some parts), and router.
I resawed some 2x4s to get clear stock for the overhaning top and the trim at the base.
So in light of "exploration", I'm looking for some interesting options to support the shelves.
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:24:07 GMT, "Mike Marlow"

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If the bookshelf design is more traditional you might try movable cleats supported on forward and aft upright strips. The uprights will have corresponding raduis or 'sawtooth' cutouts every 2-3" to accept similar shaped cleat ends. You can put a dowel in the bottom of the shelf, near each end, to help contain the cleat in its vertical holder - a lot of them didn't even use this. This was used in a lot of the old side-by-sides, secretaries and other antique furniture and is pretty neat.
RonB
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I'll be astounded if you can understand this from the description. I am posting a pic of a shelf support in our old side-by-side on ABPW.
RonB

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what is ABPW?
yeah, I need to "see" it ;-)

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alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking and the is a ABPFurniture also.
On Fri, 03 Dec 2004 11:02:33 -0700, nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

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Can you drill 1/4" holes spaced every inch or so and use shelf pins to support the shelves? The pins come in plastic and metal and a variety of shapes and colors.
Shelf pins don't provide the fine adjustability that the metal shelf standards do, but they work great for most situations.
Anthony
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this is kinda where I was leaning, but wanted to get some other ideas
wrote:

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I made a jig using a 5/8 drill on a drill press. I drilled 5/8 holes every 1 1/4 using a fence and an indexing peg. The jig is 4 feet long. I added a tailpiece that was threaded so I can index at the bottom of the work piece. The jig was 6 inches wide and the holes were drilled 2 inches on center in from an edge. You can align either edge against your work and get a 2 inch or 4 inch inset. The jig took a couple of hours to make and the hard parts were the edge guides and tailpiece. Oh yeah, you use a plunge router with a 5/8 template guide. You can use 1/4 inch spiral or 5 mm or whatever size you want in the router. I then drew lines through every other hole so I can choose to skip a hole of use them all.
max

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nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net wrote:

I posted a rendering in ABPW, I hope you can see it. I use this design in all kinds of sizes.
Rob
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Thu, Dec 2, 2004, 1:42am (EST-2) nospam snipped-for-privacy@mesanetworks.net whispered: for a bookshelf, anyone have an opinion on which type of adjustable shelf support to use? The metal rail with clip is out of the question for this project.
Pegs.
But, don't know why one would want a bookshelf adjustable. Unless it wasn't used for books. Moving books can be a major PITA.
JOAT Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont matter, and those who matter dont mind. - Dr Seuss
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Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be adjusted to compensate. Or maybe the bookshelf might be configured for figurines or something in the future. I probably would have them adjustable either, but I can envision times when you might want it.
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wrote:

I usually build them adjustable unless there is a specific need otherwise. it's easier....
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Fri, Dec 3, 2004, 7:43pm snipped-for-privacy@rogers.com (Upscale) says: Maybe all the books aren't the same height and some shelves need to be adjusted to compensate. <snip>
I always make the top shelf open at the top, for the oversize books. Works out fine. Alternately, you could just lay them flat, and stack them. And, I don't put figurines or other stuff on a bookshelf - otherwise it'd be a "stuff" shelf.
JOAT Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind dont matter, and those who matter dont mind. - Dr Seuss
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I guess. Unless the shelving is designed solely for books, then it's likely going to have all sorts of stuff put on it. It's convenient to be able to accommodate the preferences of the individual user.
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