Adhesive for Plexiglas to wood

[MaxD]

What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to plywood?(Baltic Birch) I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else? TIA.

Max

[G.W.Ross]

[Doug Miller]

MaxD wrote in news:512ea628$0$59602$c3e8da3 $ [e-mail]:

What's the application, specifically?

[Martin Eastburn]

I'd say Acrylic itself. Just like welding two slabs together.

Mart> What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to

[chaniarts]

silicone.

[Lew's News]

What adhesive would be best to fasten Plexiglas (acylic) to plywood?(Baltic Birch) I'm thinking epoxy but I'd have to go buy it so...anything else? TIA.

----------------------------------------------------

3M 5200

HD should have it.

Lew

[MaxD]

I am making a dust "shroud", "blade enclosure", whatever the appropriate terminology might be to describe a device to collect dust over a table saw blade. I'm making the sides out of Birch ply and the top out of 1/4" acrylic. Similar to this:

Max

[MaxD]

Well, I was planning on using silicone to seal any openings that need it. So...

[MaxD]

Cool web site, thanks

[Doug Winterburn]

Looks like simple screws through the plexi/acrylic into the wood. If the plexi/acrylic is shaped properly to match the curvature of the wood sides, screws should be all that is required. There wouldn't be enough air leakage to make a difference. Most of the leakage will come through the bottom which rides on the work piece.

[Richard]

May I try to talk you out of that?

Silicone tends to "poison" the surface of anything that it is used on. Nothing else will ever stick to it again. If repairs are ever needed that could cause all manner of problems.

Use 5200 as the adhesive, and as the seal.

Good stuff, Maynard.

[Ken Moffett]

MaxD wrote in news:51301144$0$64368$c3e8da3$ [e-mail]:

I'd recommend polycarbonate (Lexan) over acrylic (Plexiglas). If struck, acrylic will shatter into sharp bits. Lexan is the prefered plastic for guards.

Ken

[Doug Miller]

MaxD wrote in news:5130102b$0$64368$c3e8da3 $ [e-mail]:

Don't use acrylic for this application, it's not impact-resistant. Use polycarbonate instead.

And why make the sides out of wood? Why not make the whole thing out of polycarbonate?

[MaxD]

I already had the acrylic but I agree with you on the poly. In the particular application I intend I would "hope" the plastic doesn't get struck. ;-)

Max

[MaxD]

polycarbonate instead.

Since this project is a "prototype" I will very likely build a Lexan model. I'm primarily interested in determining how well the device collects dust from the table top and establishing a method of mounting the rest of the "system". I will have photos when I try it out.

[MaxD]

Thanks, Richard. I'm getting more votes for the 5200. ;-)

Max

[Han]

MaxD wrote in news:5130c0cf$0$64340$c3e8da3$ [e-mail]:

Keep us abreast of your findings! I have an old Craftsman tablesaw with a blade-shroud, but no suction. I think it is acrylic, but am not sure. Finding a really good way to add suction there would be good ...

[MaxD]

[Doug Miller]

MaxD wrote in news:5130c0cf$0$64340$c3e8da3 $ [e-mail]:

In that case... make the entire prototype out of wood. Why bother using plastic for *any* of it?

[Lew Hodgett]

----------------------------------------------------------------- Based on the tinyurl above, there is absolutely nothing to be gained using 3M-5200.

Avoid acrylic like it was the plague because it will shatter from almost any contact by a chip thrown from the saw blade.

Use 1/4" polycarbonate (Lexan) and attach with some #10, pan head, S/S, coarse thread, self tapping sheet metal screws.

Drill 7/32" clearance holes in the Lexan and 9/64" pilot drill in the wood.

You need to provide some clearance between Lexan and fastener to accommodate the difference in thermal expansion.

You can also make use of a 1,500 W heat gun to aid the Lexan conforming to the shape of the wood.

Shoot a couple of coats of shellac to finish the job.

Have fun.

Lew

coarse thread