a strong patch for an irregular hole?

That trumpet case again... The latch holes were routed out with rounds on either end. Hard to match that. So I decided to chisel them out square.
I did a fair job of it, but not perfect. There's a little irregularity to the holes. Because of where the new hardware needs to sit to look right, I have to put one of the new fasteners through this area, and the only thing holding that side of the latch in place will be the piece of wood that plugs this hole. It needs to be stuck in there right and tight.
It's oak plywood about 1/2" thick. Has some voids, and it's decidedly splintery from where they sewed vinyl onto the edges of this thing with some huge ass don't-want-to-put-my-finger-in-front-of-THAT-needle sewing machine. (A sewing machine that can punch a needle through 1/2 of oak plywood about ten times per inch gets all the respect it wants from me. That ain't yer grandma's Singer, folks.)
So anyway... I'm thinking to lay a piece of paper across the hole and do a rubbing so I can carefully fit something to all the slight irregularities. I want to aim for a good press fit, but even at that, the other side of this (the splintery, voidy oak ply) isn't the best for achieving a good glue joint. The forces at play here will be trying to pull this plug straight out of the hole from the top.
Maybe chamfer it so that it's smaller at the outside (the top) than the inside? I have a little room to play, but not much. One side of this hole is close to the joint between the bottom and the lid, and there's only about 1/4" of wood there, with a lip on it, so it's mostly rather thin.
]]] <-- lid engages with this lip ]]] ]]]]]]] ]]]]]]]
<-- hole needs filling
]]]]]]] ]]]]]]] ]]]]]]] outside of case ----> ]]]]]]]
I can't get access all around to do dowels. I might could stick in a couple of metal pins from two sides, if I can find a long, skinny bit and some long, skinny rods. That still isn't going to help much, and I'd have to be careful of putting the metal in a place that prevented me from putting the screw through later.
I *can* get access to the back side of this, but I can't put anything thick in there. Maybe 1/8" but no more. That suggests backing it up with a piece of steel somehow, but that presents problems with the brass screw that's going to go into this plugged hole.
That $50 trumpet case is looking better and better. :)
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
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How about boring to a standars size and plugging? Nothing will pull out a properly fitted/glued plug. Wilson

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Wilson wrote:

I should have stressed that it's a *rectangular* hole. :)
Face on, it looks a bit like this
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ <-- thin lip [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[ [[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[
Too close to the thin edge to bore it out. It's also comparatively huge. 7/8" x 2" or thereabouts.
There are two of these, one on either side of the handle. Both need filling.
Shouldda kept looking for drop in replacement hardware. Oh well.
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Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
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If your situation allows it add a backer piece behind your square plug that's larger than the hole which is made of something substantial like Baltic Birch plywood or a good piece of oak. Make this backer piece about 2 X bigger than your square hole, or larger if possible. Use epoxy to glue in the backer piece and your square plug. Clamp everything in place for about 24 hours. Then sand it smooth and apply the finish. If you fitted you plug properly the repair will be strong and almost invisible.
Charley

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Somebody wrote:

huge.
Think about a Dutchman.
Lew
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