A repair using veneer


The top of a teak Danish Modern style of dresser was scorched when a hot clothes iron was left on it. A lot of the other furniture in the house (living room and dining room) is also teak but from a much earlier era and built with reasonably heavy veneers. Over the years I have successfully sanded or steel-wooled out minor imperfections in the better-built units. When I tried to sand out the scorch mark, the veneer was so thin I sanded right through it to the base material.
Now we are considering reveneering the top. Years ago I had done a little veneering on some small pieces that were to be used as serving pieces for cakes and the like. I have also used Formica types of laminate to finish kitchen counter tops so I am not a complete novice in the process.
The dresser top in question is 88' long and just under 18'' deep.
Looking through Google I came cross two sources of veneers that might fit the bill.
Rockler has flexible sheets that are 2' by 8'. It is 1/64" thick, paper backed with pressure sensitive adhesive.
Constantine's has flexible sheets that are 8' by 1.5' and 1/16". Their description does not mention adhesive but refers to "glued down". They also have the peel-n-stick that sounds like the Rockler product. Constantine's recommends it is best finished with varnish or polyurethane. The rest of the dresser and all the other pieces are oil finished.
I would like to get opinions on these products particularly if you have actually used them. Self adhesive certainly sounds easier, but sure that there must be downside I want opinions from users rather than the suppliers.
Charlie
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Get your product, and product support from Constantine's, when it comes to veneers. It's their main product line. Rockler resells someone else's stuff.
Top end furniture veneer is typically not paper-backed, self adhesive.
Patriarch
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