a relatively dumb question i'm sure...

To muddy the waters a bit, and maybe anticipate your next question, try this page

formatting link
can go up to the "Glossary" area of this page and read about "patterns", "fixtures", "templates" and so on.

charlie b

Reply to
charlieb
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Can one make a fixture with a JIGsaw?

Reply to
Robatoy

Peter Huebner wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news.individual.net:

*snip*

Does it matter which order you do the measuring and cutting in? I like to measure, cut, and measure again... That's how to do it, right?

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

And bringing in luthiers, you just added the concept of a "form" -- which would be a jig for no tools (unless your count clamps)? or would that be a fixture for a tool known as a bench? So to completely de-rail the conversation: are benches and clamps tools? If so then is a form a fixture or a jig?

Semantics are silly.

hex

-30-

Reply to
hex

The dictionary definition is that a jig controls the motion or location of a tool; a fixture controls the location of a workpiece.

Reply to
Larry W

I think the proper order is: measure measure again cut measure/fit cuss on the way to the lumber yard..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

I built a TS jig last week to cut slots in the end of four 3/4" dowels..

I figured that it was more efficient to drill 4 holes in a 2x4 scrap than risk cutting fingers off.. One pass through the saw and the dowels were nicely cut and the 2x4 was in the firewood pile..

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

Even just all the way to the lumber rack is bad enough.

Heh. -P.

Reply to
Peter Huebner

this helped quite a bit. the headboard doesn't sound that complex. it's two posts that need mortises to attach to the metal frame and then some 1x6's that span the mattress and connect the two posts.

if i had a better set of power tools, this might be easier but the jigs required are for the mortises for the bedframe connector and the

1xt6's connecting the two posts. all of this is going to be made with mesquite i decided. a friend has a tree in his backyard that he's wanting to remove. i can cut it down the rough it out...but i'll need to get a friend to let me borrow the use of planer/joiner to cut these boards down to size.

this is do-able right?

Reply to
unclescrooge

unclescrooge wrote: ...

Well, if you're starting w/ green wood, you've added a whole new area of practice to your repertoire of required skills... :)

Drying timber to get usable, stable lumber for cabinetmaking is an art in itself...

--

Reply to
dpb

it's doable, but as dpb said, it's introducing a whole new set of variables, most of which you've little or no experience with.

Disclosure: I have never cut down trees or used logs to make lumber for projects. Any wood I've ever used has been bought at a lumber store or Home centre. I've also never worked with mesquite. If I make errors here, I'm sure someone will correct me.

Having said that, I'll tell you what I've learned from reading about the process.

The tree should be a decent size. Your biggest board is going to be 1x6, and you probably want quarter sawn, so that means some kind of diameter that's significantly larger than 6". This likely isn't an issue, but you need to know what diameter will yield the size of boards you want.

Once the tree is down, it needs to be cut into boards. You can do that with a bandsaw or a chainsaw that's mounted on a resaw bracket. Either way it's equipment I'm assuming you don't have. If it's a bandsaw, the capacity needs to be at least the diameter of the log, but likely a few inches more. If the log is 12" diameter, look to a 14" bandsaw. Lee Valley has the guides for chainsaws to cut logs into planks. I have no idea how easy or difficult that process is.

The rough cut boards will need to be planed and jointed, and I'm unclear if that comes before or after drying the wood. Research on the web or a book will tell you that. Maybe it doesn't matter. My guess is that it does matter and should be done after drying.

From everything I've seen, drying is about one year per inch of thickness of wood. You need a place to store the wood while it's drying, preferably indoors, but it can be done outside if protected properly Regardless, there is a bit of an art on how to stack it so it dries evenly. Most recommend sealing the ends of the boards so they don't check.

Kiln drying takes less time, but you need access to a kiln.

I know I've missed things in the above, but I think you get the idea. That's a HELL of a lot of work for two pieces of 1x6.

So yes, it's doable. Practical? I don't know. You['re the only one who can answer that.

Tanus

Reply to
Tanus

Do-able, yes.. easy, no..

With proper stacking, green lumber dries at the rate of about 1 year per inch of thickness.. Hope you don't need that bed soon.. lol

Maybe you should buy the lumber and a mini lathe and turn the mesquite while it's green..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Reply to
mac davis

holy cow...i didn't know that. i guess i'll still take the tree to learn with. mesquite is a very hard wood. it has a wonderful look though and it's readily available here in s. texas.

well i guess i'll go down to the lumber store tomorrow to price the wood.

thank you guys for your help and input!

Reply to
unclescrooge

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