A craftsman table saw?!

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@1947080876.1064888904@@@@&BV_EngineIDkcadcjhklhfgfcehgcemgdffmdflf.0&listingid=-2098480011&pid924830000
This is $500, and there is a 10% discount for hardware week, or something like that. So it is $450 for alot of cast iron. (the router table piece is cast iron also.)
It is only a 24" fence, but I don't expect to do much bigger than that. The fence didn't feel as positive as the deltas or jets, but I can always go to a better fence some day; right? (besides, that is 6" less inches I need in my already cramped "shop".)
So, is it a gimicky piece of junk, or does it offer a lot of features for the price. (It is a step up from the router table I am using now.)
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I would suggest looking elsewhere. Spending that kind of money for something with a questionable fence? Look at Grizzly, Jet, Delta, etc. and see what there is to see.     mahalo,     jo4hn
Wade Lippman wrote:

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Also look at Makita and Hitachi. They look even better.

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Consider spending a little more now, and having all the saw you'll probably need for a long time. I'd suggest looking at the Jet JWTS-10JF saw.
That being said, I have a 10" Craftsman TS with a XR-2424 fence. I added the PALS system ($21.99): http://www3.woodcraft.com/PowerToolAccessories/woodworking/895.htm I now have a very good, quite accurate TS... for a contractor saw. It works well enough that the similarly priced competition doesn't warrant the idea of a swap. When I do sell this one, I'll make a move to a cabinet saw. I don't have a big enough shop yet to house such a beast. No regrets for now, but if I had a choice of buying this one new, or the Jet, I'd go with the Jet. Cast iron seems nice but that just means it's heavier to move. As long as vibration wasn't an issue, I'd be just as happy with stamped steel wings. Easier to clean, nothing falls through.
Will trade one accurized Craftsman TS for one NIB Unisaw, or maybe that new Dewalt hybrid model...
Robert

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In rec.woodworking

This is my saw. I paid $450 with rebate. I installed a Forrest WWII blade and zero clearance insert immediately. The trunion nor the fence were square out of the box. So what, neither are the $1000 Deltas I was looking at this weekend at Woodcraft. After adjusting everything to square, I'm pleased with the saw and love the router table. I think the fence is fine and I never need more than 24". Hell, that will split a sheet of plywood so what else do I need?
I also built a nice CC sled for it. I say go for it.
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ingid=-2098480011&pid924830000

It's not exactly gloat material, but I got my Delta contractor's saw used for $650 a couple of years back. This was with a Forrest WWII, mobile base, extension table, and Unifence. I'd say that would be a good $200 upgrade from what you're talking about. Heck, just the upgrade to the WWII would get you half way there. Bottom line...I'd try to find a used Delta or Jet before buying a new Craftsman.
todd
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On Tue, 30 Sep 2003 02:38:52 GMT, "Wade Lippman"

i picked up a craftsman 10" TS that was in good shape without a blade but with a good homebrew dust collection for 150. cast iron top, with the cast iron web table extensions. fence could use some work, but then again, you can set the fence, and then bring the clamps and clamp the far end down. it's a 1.5hp belt. i plan on picking up the pals and a link belt with pulleys from woodcraft. so 150 for saw + 25 for pals, + 60 for belt and pulleys, a blade (40 - 100)... there's still money left over to make or purchase a dedicated router table. throw in a decent fence a little later, and it's a setup that will work. at least that's what i'm counting on. =)
-danny
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I have this saw. Bought it a couple of years ago when it was marketed as a "special value" package. Saw works fine once adjusted. Fence is fine once the bolt was slightly tightened. If you prefer a fence face from something other than aluminum you will need to make/buy something though. Also added cast extension (available through the Sears catalogue) on the right side, replacing the stamped steel one.
In my opinion, the router wing has a design shortfall. There is no channel for the miter gauge on the left side of the router. Hence you cannot use your miter or a featherboard on the table top safely unless you build an extension. To make matters worse, I tried to run a piece through being ever so careful. Just suffice to say that two of my fingers are now a permanent testament to how stupid of an idea that was, even after re-constructive surgery. If you decide to buy this saw, build the extension or maybe try mounting it to the right of the saw blade.
If I had it to do over again, I do not think I would buy this saw again. I feel that for only slightly more money you can get a better saw that will work better with the harder woods. Don't get me wrong, it is not terrible and I will not be replacing it anytime soon. But, if I were buying new, I would be looking at other products.
Hope it helps, Bill
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