Obviously the 12" will handle thicker stuff, but is there any other
advantage to a 12"?
Space is my primary concern, but pricing is important also. I think I cut
over 2" on my 12" CMS once in the last 2 years; so capacity isn't all that
important. (however, going from 8" wide with my 12" CMS to 12" with a 8
1/2" SCMS would be darn nice.)
I've never owned a 12" so can't really speak to their usefulness or lack
thereof. I just purchased the Makita LS1013 10" to put wood flooring down
with. So far, it's worked very well and I can't imagine why I would need
the extra size of a 12" (although everyone's neeeds are different of
They have the 1013 fo 439.99, but no rebate; so I looked it up on the
website. No rebate there either, but it was 469.99! You get a $30 discount
for reading their circular.
I also looked it up at Makita.com. They do not show the promotion.
Amen to the 1013 Makita. It came tweaked-to-the-nuts out of the box along with a
free Makita 9/16" hammer drill.
I tested some crown inside and out mitres (6"-45 )cutting them flat using the
tables listed in the manual and verifying them with the Bosch digital protractor
( a MUST have for anybody doing trim, IMHO..it's just too easy and accurate.
I had an 92.35-degree inside mitre to do. Looked up my manual, set it up,
followed the pictures. First try. I was so happy I giggled like a school-girl.
That is a nice saw.
Read an article recently, after I bought a 12" Dewalt compound miter
saw which said that the larger blade can reduce accuracy. i.e. it's
harder to make a truly "true" 12' blade run true! Makes sense I
guess. Certainly it depends on your working tolerances.
Not at all true. It's just as likely that a small blade will have runout as
a large one. Doesn't matter if the thing is wobbling 1/4". It still has the
same center of rotation. Only difference will be the kerf width. Ever used a
wobble dado? Serious runout. You may not like the quality of the finished
dado but it will be where you want it, cut after cut.
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