I like to make boxes using miter joints and splines or miller dowels. I sometimes use boards as wide as 15" and would like to make a jig/sled to cut the 45 degree edge miter as accurately as possible on my table saw (left tilt). I have in the past used a quickly thrown together one runner sled for this out of a piece of plywood. Having recently put together a really nice 2 runner crosscut sled I was wondering if anybody had any good tips on building one for crosscut 45 degree cuts.
Thanks, Jim
Get this months Shopnotes. They have what your looking for.
How about making a wooden version of the sled that David Marks uses? (another) Jim
Make a ramp at 45 and clamp your stock to it. Leave your blade at 090.
For ideas/inspiration, take a look at the sled on my web site below ... jig and fixtures page. It uses the factory corner of a sheet of plywood (which you verify beforehand to be 90 degrees) and works on the principle of complementary angles by alternating cuts for each side of your frame, insuring a 90 degree joint.
Once again, Fred Bingham's, Practical Yacht Joinery covers the subject.
(Uses a factory corner from a sheet of 3/4" plywood)
Lew
With 15" boards it is hard to get an accurate miter on the tablesaw. Very easy on a good size router table with a 45 degree bit. The sled would be good for narrower boards but the wide ones would be a lot easier on the router table.
Tim
There is a new eddition of that book out. "Boat joinery and cabinet making simlified". I just ordered it from Amazon. 16.95. As much mention as it has gotten around here, I thought it would be worth a look.
Think you will enjoy it, even if the boat stuff doesn't fit your needs.
Lew
I thought about that, and I'll probably do something along that line. But I stll need a solution for atarting out with a long board (8'). For example, I want to make a jewelry box for my wife, it is big, 33" x
20" x 15". So, I have on order a piece of 13/16" x 15" x 8' curly maple. I want the case to have the grain wrap around it, so I need to start with the full length board. It's the first cuts I'm concerned about.-Jim
You may want to seriously consider a 9' board.
or even a 10' board
Gary
That is exactly the kind of jig I made... although mine would not handle a 15 inch wide cross cut....
Glued a piece of sand paper on the surface of the ramp which allows accurate cross cuts up to about 8 inches without a clamp on my sled..
Bob G..
OK, now you made me nervous. But it is too late, I already ordered the
8 footer. I assume you are suggesting this so that I have more room for mistakes...-Jim
OK, now you made me nervous. But it is too late, I already ordered the
8 footer. I assume you are suggesting this so that I have more room for mistakes...-Jim
Actually, maybe I would be better off canning this whole idea and going with a box or dovetail joint or something...
-Jim
This is what I'm attempting to reproduce:
A mitered corner would be one of my last choices, but is doable with splines and would look quite nice. I am wondering why you are reluctant to cut the
45 degree miters on your table saw?. This is basically why they "tilt". ;)BTW, now that we can see the idea, 8' would probably be sufficient for the material for the top and two sides. When you said "box", that usually means four sides, which, given your posted dimensions, added up to more than 96", IIRC ... thus the recommendation to go at least 9'. ;)
Good luck ... it will be a gorgeous project.
Where do you see miter joints in that?
Well, I didn't see miter joints, that was my own thing, with splines. But after all of this discussion, and what Swingman said, I really think I'm gonna go Dovetail. Miter is just what I "know". I have never done dovetail, so the challenge would be good. I will do them by hand as I don't have, and can't afford, a jig. So, all that being said, can anybody offer up a good instructional site so I can get practicing? Tips on drawer making is also welcome. Man, this stuff gets addictive....
-Jim
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