2x12 ramp

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"Gramps' shop" wrote:

Lew Hodgett wrote:

By your definition then people who live in condos or apartments are not everyday people?
Interesting.
Lew
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So here's what I've decided to do: This mower is going to my son's cabin i n northern Wisconsin, a trip of about 200 miles. I'll be there to load it, but he's on his own for unloading. With that in mind, I can rent a low ri ding open trailer for about $100. The trailer has ramps, so this should be a piece of cake.
Thanks, again, for all of you input.
Larry
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On Wed, 21 May 2014 09:10:01 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"

I just rent a trailer from U-Haul. One-way, they're less than $20/day.
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Do what Buddy did...

http://youtu.be/tLv0gEFkzkg

http://youtu.be/tLv0gEFkzkg

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
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On 5/20/2014 9:33 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:

out of aluminum that I bought for another truck, then got a Dodge 2500 which has a substantially higher bed height. The ramps work, but I am about at a 45 when going up them. They have transverse rods, so the tires don't slip. Your two by's won't have anything to prevent side slip.
When loading and unloading, I look for a berm, or a hill, or somewhere I can put the wheels in a recess to reduce the incline. For a riding mower, I don't know what your torque or gear reduction is, but they are made for going in a straight line, and not for climbing slopes. You may have a problem getting it to climb a steep ramp.
If it was me, this is how I would do it: A lot is being said about this and that, and I think some of the most important parts are being ignored. I would put a side guide on each side if each board, like a piece of flat bar that would keep the wheel from going off. I would put some expanded metal on top of the board for traction. Or that non slip stuff that comes in 4" wide pieces. Use contact cement to put it on. I would put some type of hook type device, or chains to hold the tops of the boards steady on whatever they will go on, either tailgate or bed. A piece of reinforcement angle under the two by wouldn't hurt.
You are not going to find out how this will all work until you use them. You will have wet tires, grass, water, and smooth wood. You will have tires that have smooth surfaces, meant to treat grass kindly, and not to climb. If you have any shift in the boards, or one of the wheels slides to the side, you are going to be in a hairy spot with the mower half way up the ramp. Getting off is going to be iffy, whether or not the machine will stay on the ramps or crash to the ground. Mowers have decks and all sorts things sticking out, not like atv's that have a lot of clearance on them, so there are lots of things to grab hold of while you are going up and down the ramps. You will have to do some tests to make sure when you reach the breakover point that the deck and all will not scrape on the tailgate edge.
You are loading a heavy machine on an incline. The traction is a question. The stability is questionable.
With all said, the most important thing you can do in your loading and unloading process is to look for a spot that will give you the least angle for the boards. Make them as long as the bed of the truck, utilizing length to reduce angle.
I have loaded atvs hundreds of times. Sometimes with factory ramps, and sometimes with rocks we rounded up. We have had about a dozen times when someone gets antsy, and drives them off the trailer with no ramps, about an 18" drop, and they survived with all teeth and bones intact. ATVs are meant to climb. We (I) have not had one come off a ramp yet, but we use special aluminum ramps made for that or factory fold downs. Have you considered buying a pair of industrially made ramps? About $300 new, a lot less used.
If you will be using this regularly at a spot that you know is stable, and you know how it will act, you could probably just get by with a couple of two bys. If you are going to use it under a different set of circumstances every time, you will need a good solid set of ramps that will cover most any situation.
Be safe. If you get half way up that ramp that ramp, and things go squiggly, you are going to be in a VERY dangerous spot. VERY. What you are proposing is simple in principle, but then reality takes over, and shit happens.
Let us know what you do and how you do it, so we can apply the knowledge. And laugh at the funny stories, or maybe commiserate until the casts come off.
Steve
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On 5/20/2014 11:08 AM, Leon wrote:

Sure. What's the worst that could happen. Just slap a couple of two bys up there and run it up.
Steve
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On 5/21/2014 9:10 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:

my son's cabin in northern Wisconsin, a trip of about 200 miles.
I'll be there to load it, but he's on his own for unloading.
With that in mind, I can rent a low riding open trailer for about $100.
The trailer has ramps, so this should be a piece of cake.

I have a trailer that I'd SELL you for $150 that would handle it. If you are going to use it regularly, watch for one and buy it. I put WANTED ads in Craigslist and do just fine, finding things before people put them on the market, or it's been stuck in the corner of the garage and they just want to dump it cheap.
Steve
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On 5/20/2014 4:59 PM, snipped-for-privacy@wizardanswers.com wrote:

Two by's about six feet long would almost be a vertical approach on some larger trucks.
Steve
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On 5/20/2014 9:33 AM, Gramps' shop wrote:

Steve
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Harbor Fright has naked trailers for under $200. You do need to add some sort of deck to them but that shouldn't be much of a problem for anyone here.
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Mine isn't "larger" (F150 RWD) but its bed is still ~4'. With a 6' ramp it would be quite a climb. ;-)
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You don't even really need ramps for a Wheelhorse - ... if you just spur it a little - .. it will just jump up onto the trailer ! :-) John T.
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