28-290 Delta Bandsaw Help

I wonder if someone can help with my stand, and the base table stop. The places that sell the replacement want crazy money for the parts, so I need to fab. them.
If someone has this base, I need the dimensions of #257;cover, #261;Stop ( looks like a metal strip,) and need to know or possibly if someone has it can take some nice big, clear photos, of how this thing is put together. There is part # 263;bumper, (there are 2 of them) and part # 262 2 latch, (there are 2 of them also). Need to know how the bumpers and the latch's, and the stop work. Also need to know the dimensions of the "Stop" too. Mine is missing, and I have no Idea how it is put together. I am sure I can come up with something on my own, but I would like it to look as close to factory as possible.
Also if someone could please measure the "Table Leveling Sleeve", I need, Diameter, OAL, and depth of the bore, I assume from reading the parts catalogs the 5/16 18 X 2" long headless set screw is just as it states, and the Table Leveling Sleeve just bottoms on the end of the headless set screw, and the headless set screw uses a jam nut on the bottom of the casting. Appreciate any help you can give me, I am posting links to the drawing, and a photo of the stand, (Thanks to OP)
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
Thanks, Tony
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On 3/4/2012 1:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
Tony, if you have the base and it is missing the door in question, I would simply get a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal 2" larger than the hole. Install with four sheetmetal screws, one in each corner. Fancier would be to cut out the two bottom corners so that the resulting flange goes into the bottom of the cabinet hole, and you only have 2 screws holding the top corners. Paint, etc optional. The only time(s) you will ever get in that hole would be to change the belt or the motor and even then it is probably easier to work up through the bottom. The spring latch and maroon knob are just not necessary. If you really want the dimensions, write back and I will measure mine.
I'm not sure what you are calling a table stop. There is a knob on the front and one on the back that you loosen to allow tipping the table. Loosen those. Tip the table. At the back left hand side there is a threaded hole in the casting. I think mine has a carriage bolt with a jam nut threaded into that hole. I assume you have had the saw running with the blade tracking, etc. When the top comes down, adjust it for square to the blade - the top of the carriage bolt hits the bottom of the top. Once you have the saw top square to the blade, tighten the jam nut.
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Thanks Dan, Yeah, trying to get it to look correct , as came from the factory. Would Appreciate the measurements. I have the red knob for the belt guard door , I have to find one for the bottom door I am making. Yeah, Guess I could use a 5/15 18 carriage bolt, I did think of that, but Delta uses a headless stud, or set screw, 2" long, or you could run the bolt up from the bottom, then a 1/2" dia X 1.175 long sleeve sets over the stud. That way if you want to tilt the table to the left, you pull the 1.175 long sleeve off. A jam nut locks the stud at the bottom of the casting. The sleeve looks like this,
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/TableLevelingSleeve01.jpg
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I don't understand this, I just made a post and don't see it, it said it was successful?
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/TableLevelingSleeve01.jpg
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On 3/4/2012 1:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/BS4cover.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/mrbreezeet1/Upload%20and%20forget/Stand.jpg
Tony, here are the measurements on mine. I still think you're making a mountain of a mole hill. I had not ever seen the removable top stop before, so fabricated one for mine as there have been times I would have liked to be able to tilt in rather than out, though I've always made do. Thanks for that detail.
Look at your "Stand.jpg" The hole in my case is 11" tall x 11 11/16 wide. The door is 12 1/4" x 12 1/4" The door is .06 thick which is 16 gauge. The corners are rounded. Part 261 is 11 1/2" x 1" x 1/8" thick. Part 262 (2) is a spring metal clip shaped a bit like a W that holds the and is held by 260. These clips are what keeps the bottom of the door in/on the case. 262 rests on the bottom of the hole. 259 is a shaped tip with a shoulder against the back of the door with 1/4-20 threads on the end to hold the knob.
The door sits completely on the outer surface of the cabinet. The spring clips at bottom and the spring "ears" riveted in the upper hole do seem to keep the tin plate from rattling. There are two rubber? bumpers on the case at the upper corners probably 263 (2)
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<<<<<<<<<<<<SNIP<<<<<<<<<<<<<< Thanks Dan, That will help, I made a table leveling sleeve too, The dimensions I found were, OAL 1.890, Diameter is .500, bore is .312 X .800 deep.
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