I don,' believe so. The fan is there to move air through the radiator when
the vehicle is not moving fast enough help the radiator cast off heat.
You very likely had more going on to cause your engine to over heat,
especially at -20. 30 or do years ago we had a brutal winter, at least
for Houston. My service advisors were writing up an abnormally large
number of over heating vehicles. We had temps that never came above
freezing for days on end. And that was with fans working perfectly fine.
The simple problem was that those vehicles antifreeze was not up to the
task and the water/ antifreeze/ coolant mixture simply froze. There was no
water circulating at all to cool the engines. With -20 degrees and the
very likely fact that your fan belt also turned the water pump you probably
had no water circulation between the radiator and engine and or your water
froze. Unless you had a strong tail wind and the 70 mph vehicle wind
speed was effectively reduced to very little, you should have had enough
air passing through the radiator. Fans do not move air through the
radiator any where near 70. Mph. It as very likely that the water pomp
stopped turning fast enough to properly circulate the cooling system
Not only that, but as Leon pointed out, the fan only needs
to run when the car is stationary, or close to it. Using
an electric fan means it can be turned off when not needed,
which slightly reduces aero drag, and slightly reduces the
power the engine has to supply to the altenator, both of
which slightly increase fuel mileage.
Years ago NASCAR stock cars (which were required by rule
to use belt driven fans) used to be fitted with tiny little
fans barely larger than your hand, to reduce drag and engine
load at 150mph+. As a consequence, it wasn't uncommon for
cars to overheat when running slow due to a caution period.
I used to buy Honda and Acura. Flip a coin as to which is better, Honda
or Toyota. But the grills on all of the Toyotas and Lexus do take some
getting use to. We have a 2012 SE V6 Camry and I do prefer the look of
the 2015 over ours except for the grill. Our Camry is now 35 months old
and has yet to go in for any warranty work. My 2007 Tundra still runs
I put two engines in a 1983 Supra in 30,000 miles (yes, thirty, not
three hundred) with Toyota being unwilling to cough up one cent (the
first one was 12,800 miles into a 12,500 mile warranty IIRC) so I never
want another Toyota.
First one the bearings went on a really cold morning. Second one I was
driving down the road about 35 miles an hour in fourth gear and it threw
Until the first engine blew it was really a nice car.
That was one of the first all aluminum engines. When my brother moved
from Philadelphia to San Diego, I drove one of his three cars, his
wife's Vega, out there. Cross country in five days. It was never the
same after that so he unloaded it.
Actually the Vega engine, except for the Cosworth Vega engine, had an
aluminum block and cast iron head. Expansion rates between dissimilar
metals may have been one of the reasons for chronic blown head gaskets
and over heating. I was very leery of buying anything American with all
or partial aluminum engines in the 70's and 80's. Although my factory
rep talked me into buying my wife the 83 Ciera with the aluminum block
V6 diesel. He guaranteed me that he would warrant if for as long as I
owned it. I bit and bought and unloaded before 50K. I got tired of
having the vehicle in the shop for engine problems. He made good on the
promise however. I paid for no repairs. And to be certain, I was the
Service Sales Manager for a large Oldsmobile dealership. There was no
issue with maintenance being a factor.
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