2002 Unisaw

Page 8 of 9  
jloomis wrote:

Thank you for extending my "universe" of materials (and building techniques)! Where I grew up, an I-beam really looked like an I-beam. I see that things are more complicated now!
Bill
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"Bill" wrote:

------------------------------------------------------- Dig out a strength of materials text, learn and understand the following:
I^3 = (bh^3)/12 + 1/2(Ad^2)
It's the basis of all beam design and application.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

So are you saying that you didn't need to look it up??? : ) I trust you, I'm just curious.
I was doing okay on Wikipedia, until I ran into the units MPa.

I spent the whole evening learning more about steel. %-) As every Wrecker is surely aware, steel has lots of recipes and is comes is sold in a variety of molecular patterns. I doubt you can get square tube that is not annealed (A) in retail. Online, all I can do is "go bigger". I'm up to 1/4" thick now, I just don't want it to flex...lol I'm going to physically visit Lowes and actually hold some in my hand, so I can get a better feeling for wall thicknesses.
If I was clever enough, I could probably back up a few steps and build a wooden truss instead (and have fun doing it). I didn't know what a "truss" was until John Loomis mentioned the term in an earlier post yesterday. That is a great word for me to know for what I wish to accomplish. Even if the tubing did flex, I truss could be use to firm it up (as he suggested), which is reassuring, and reminds me of the nature of all of our woodworking experiments.
I have no reason to rush this purchase. I tried to resolve it, but it can wait. I think I'll take a break, and do some of my work for work!
Cheers, Bill

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Lew Hodgett wrote> :

-------------------------------------------------------- "Bill" wrote:

----------------------------------------------------- Alzheimers may be in my future but doesn't seem to have arrived yet.
Anyway, that formula was beat into me more than 50 years ago by my structural prof who would begin his homework assignments with "Gentlemen, put on your coolie hats and have fun tonight".
You don't forget that experience.
Have fun.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Here's a link in case anybody doesn't know what a coolie hat is:
http://www.shindigz.com/party/coolie-hat/pgp/p0333k?mr:referralID 6c771c-7ccc-11e3-9f1f-001b2166becc&utm_campaign=partysupplies-themepartysupplies-asianparty&utm_source=google_shopping&utm_mediumώeds&utm_content=HATCSE&stumpstrackid=GFSZHATCSE
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On 12/19/2013 1:42 PM, Sonny wrote:

I agree, the dust port should be an afterthought. I am not big on the guard either. Splitter yes, riving knife better.
If your allergies do bother you you can add the dust collection later.
--
Jeff

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woodchucker wrote:

Yes, just need a blade guard. Was thinking "quilt-rack model"--2 (upside down) "T"-shaped legs with a length of steel square tubing, or equivalent, between them. To that a reasonably simple blade cover fashioned from Lexan Polycarbonate would be attached. A disk/belt sander (why did I think of Mike Marlow?), would probably shape it nicely.
Bill
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On 12/19/2013 11:03 AM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Not sure I understand pinch the board into the blade.
But I feed with my right hand and hold the work down with the left. My right hand is grabbing the right side of the board and pushing until the end is on the table top, then I push directly from the rear. The left hand keeps the work pushed down and against the fence. I may or may not use a push device depending on the width of the rip.
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wrote:

You're on the left side of the board, so the left side of the blade. You're holding onto the left side, so when the board gets to the end, you're pushing the kerf closed.

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On 12/19/2013 5:58 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

I don't push on the side of the board once it has reached the blade, that would actually pinch the blade if the wast was narrow.
By the same token you should not use a feather board past the front of the board.
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On 12/19/2013 6:37 PM, Leon wrote:

Past the front of the blade, that is.
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On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 15:29:19 -0500, "Mike Marlow"

You're pushing the same direction; against the fence. The difference is that the left side of the board is pinching the blade, too.
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On 12/19/2013 4:22 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Actually the left side of the wood only pinches the blade if your fence is not parallel to the blade, skewed away from the blade on the back side of the blade. Or if you are incorrectly pushing the wood from the left side after it has passed the front of the blade.
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wrote:

Huh? The fence on that SS is on the right side of the blade, no? The issue isn't the alignment at all.
The issue I'm talking about is when you get to the end of the board, which side of the blade are your finners (push stick) on? I say it should be on the right side of the blade so the board is being held against the blade, rather then the left side so you're holding the board against the blade.
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On 12/19/2013 5:55 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Right side of the blade.
I say it

Yes, correct but I can do that by standing on the left side of the blade.

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wrote:

...and you're standing on the left? What about a 2' wide panel?

I'm not seeing it with any width of a board.
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On a 2' wide panel I stand between the blade and the fence, if using a fence.
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On Thu, 19 Dec 2013 17:30:34 -0500, "Mike Marlow"

But you're on the wrong side of the board to push the board against the fence.
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On 12/18/2013 3:17 PM, Leon wrote:

yes but looking at your guard, it is a front collection that redirects it back to the rear, probably because it is much easier to lift the guard if the hose is in the rear. I see a baffle that makes the air travel to the front of the guard, around , up and then back to the hose.
--
Jeff

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SawStop also has the dust hose connected to a shroud that surrounds the blade, instead of to a port that's basically just a 4"-diameter hole in the cabinet. I imagine that catches most of the sawdust.
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