2002 Unisaw

Page 5 of 9  
On Wednesday, November 27, 2013 9:47:25 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:

scanning it. In particular that the blades should be locked before the saw is turned on.
And don't torque the lock knobs (height and angle) really tight. Firm tigh tening, but not super tight. You'll learn and get the feel for sufficient tightening. With my older '81 saw, the "tightening" of the heigth knob h as worn, a bit, probably from over tightening.
Three finger firm tightening, if this defines my experience, reasonably.
Sonny
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On 11/28/2013 10:01 AM, Sonny wrote:

Yes absolutely, the is just to prevent the arbor from creeping. A slight tightening does that. just snug it + a little more.
--
Jeff

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On 11/28/2013 9:01 AM, Sonny wrote:

Agreed, My saw height wheel will spin during operation if the handle is near the top and on the left side of center. It is the weight of the handle that makes it come down. Not on the right side because that also raises the assembly. Any way I find tight enough so that the wheel does not turn on its own.
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Sonny wrote:

Yes, I'm getting the hint with "set screws". Next time my bathroom sink faucet starts to leak, I'll probably be buying new faucets instead of a $1 rubber part. And that's at least the 2nd time, I've stripped a set screw in recent history. I even bought a torque-wrench to help me curb my neanderthalic-tendencies. And, in the one time I've used it so far (for a lawn-mower spark plug), it may already have paid for itself.
Can I apply lithium grease on the internal parts corresponding to the height/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this purpose?
Bill

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On 11/28/2013 11:02 AM, Bill wrote:

The lock tends to be a bear to loosen when you tighten it too much. You will not make that mistake too often. ;~)
When in doubt tighten with your less dominant hand, it only needs to be snug. I'm not really sure you could over tighten it with out a pipe wrench, so you are not likely to break anything if every thing is working correctly.
IIRC the lock action is simply a cone shaped pointed end on the lock knob shaft that presses into a cone shaped funnel on the receiving end. Not like a nut and bolt. If you screw the lock knob out you will see what is going on.
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On Thursday, November 28, 2013 11:02:29 AM UTC-6, Bill wrote:

ght/tilt wheels of the saw, or is there something more suitable for this pu rpose?
Applying a lubricant to the large gears or teeth of the gears? There seems to be some difference of opinions about lubrcating those teeth/gears, simi lar to lubricating the threads on a wood vise screw.
Some oils or grease tend to collect sawdust, adding to any potential proble m for smooth operation. Clean, substance free gears/teeth or threads seems to work just fine, for me, though my saw's angle gear squeaks like hell, w hen cranking it. I suspect it's the shaft/support that squeaks, not the te eth/gears.
I don't lubricate my gears and sawdust collects on them, anyway, but it's n ot "stuck" on. It's a lot easier blowing the dust off, with the air hose, if the dust is not stuck on by a lubricant. In my case, sawdust collecting on the gears/teeth is much more pronounced on the saw that is not attached to the DC.
I would suggest you not lubricate the gears. If your experience suggests o therwise, then try lubricating and compare the results.
Sonny
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On 11/28/2013 12:47 PM, Sonny wrote:

Lube the gears but don't use grease. I use TopCote. I suspect any one of these would work well.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)9VW1BL9ZXZVA&tagaltmp336018-20&linkCode=asn&creative95105&creativeASIN0D3IDV8E
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Leon wrote:

Thank you. I will investigate further. I need to "get in there" with a vacuum cleaner and a flashlight!
Bill
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Sonny wrote:

There is some squeaks. No functional problem that I am aware of. The idea of putting grease onto the gears raised my caution flag too. I suspect that the saw just hasn't been used in a while.

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On 11/28/2013 2:28 PM, Bill wrote:

There really is no problem with using a grease, the factory uses grease. But there is more maintenance involved with having to clean more often.
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wrote:

LOL!

I prefer the ScotchBrite pads or steel wool. The Boeshield rust remover works really well if you have a little rust.

I've been using Boeshield but will probably switch to TopKote soon.

Watch the blade! Really, watch it. It'll jump out and find your fingers if you don't keep an eye on it.
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Ah for the good old days, when if you had need of a part for a Delta tool you would call them up, get a good old boy on the phone who would know in about 60 seconds of conversation exactly what you needed, and when you asked him the price and how much to ship, he's day, don't worry about it, we;ll send you 2 of them for free!
They don't make customer service like they used too... Or the saws either unfortunately.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
  Click to see the full signature.
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Bill wrote:

The saw made the 5 mile ride home without incident, but, to be honest, it practically fell over twice (never ALL the way over--but beyond 45-degrees) by the time it was in it's mobile base yesterday! : ) Both of those were "pretty interesting" moments. In the first one I was alone.
Now I'm looking at *blade guards*.
While exploring some of my options, I noticed that ShopNotes featured an article on building a "Dust-Free Blade Guard" in 1997 (Volume 16, Issue 92). It seems to be a pretty popular on the Internet. Is it possible someone has a version of the article that they might post to abpw? I am a subscriber to the magazine but I don't save most copies.
Thanks, Bill
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On 12/16/2013 11:14 PM, Bill wrote:

I can help you out on that Bill, I will not post it but would be happy to pdf you a copy directly to you.
BTY it is a two part article, one for the guard nd a short one for the guard support.
If you are interested send me an e-mail.
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On Monday, December 16, 2013 11:14:43 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:

Depending on your download speed, it may take a few minutes to download the whole issue.
http://metosexpo.free.fr/extra/wood_ebooks/shopnotes/ShopNotes%20-%20Vol.%2087%20to%2095/ShopNotes%20-%20Vol.%2087%20to%2095/Shopnotes%20%2392%20 (Vol%2016)%20-%20Before%20&%20After%20Shop%20Makeover.pdf
Sonny
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On 12/17/2013 11:24 AM, Sonny wrote:

Bill, I'll see if I can find another article for you. I don't remember what mag, but if I still have it, I'll scan and send it. Made of plexiglass or lexan which allows you to see in, and includes a full 2" vac.. The Shopnotes looks like a crevise tool which I don't believe would be as good, I could be wrong.
--
Jeff

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On 12/17/2013 11:24 AM, Sonny wrote:

Bill, I'll see if I can find another article for you. I don't remember what mag, but if I still have it, I'll scan and send it. Made of plexiglass or lexan which allows you to see in, and includes a full 2" vac.. The Shopnotes looks like a crevise tool which I don't believe would be as good, I could be wrong.
--
Jeff

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woodchucker wrote:

Sonny, Thank you for the download!

Thanks, I'm still in the idea collection stage. I've got some EMT lying around...and I'm not afraid to bend it! ; )
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On Tuesday, December 17, 2013 4:27:16 PM UTC-6, Bill wrote:

YW. Having to download 8 issues of ShopNotes, for just a few pages, seems impractical. Then, some of the left edge of the pages (discussion), on that download, were blurred.
Maybe Jeff can find something better, if Leon doesn't beat him to it.
If you wait a bit, after I win the MegaMillions pot, I'll buy you a blade guard of your choice, tomorrow.
Sonny
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On 12/17/2013 4:47 PM, Sonny wrote:

done deal a few hours ago! ;~)
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