quality regular kerf worked quite well for me.
My blade sharpening guy talked me into a reg kerf combo Systematic blade
that he sold in his store knowing about my underpowered saw.
I was skeptical so he let me use it for 10 days with out having to worry
about being stuck with it if I were not pleased.
I was very pleased and really somewhat shocked at how much better it was
over any thing I had ever used.
When I upgraded in 1999 to the Jet cabinet saw it only saw Forrest
blades, same with my new SawStop.
That's good to hear. I know there have been some folks less than pleased
with Forrest after the old man, Jim Forrest, died a few years back.
Since it is a family business, sure hope it stays on track, and American
All probably good blades. I have bought a lot of good blades through the
years, going back to the early 80's,
In 1999 I finally switched to the Forrest WWII 40 tooth Regular kerf blade,
For all cutting I have used nothing else, I do probably more woodworking
than most that post here so my blades see a lot of work compared to most.
Probably at the most I send the blade back to Forrest every 2-3 years to be
brought back to factory spec's.
FWIW I do not give the Forrest blades much thought, I don't long for
something better as I am never disappointed in the smoothness or quality of
the cut. Additionally I don't baby the blades or save them for special
projects, they are tough and stay sharp for a very long time even when
cutting through the occasional finishing nail.
I use this particular blade for "all" off my cuts regardless of the type of
cut I am making. The only exception to this is when I have my Forrest Dado
King mounted or my 15 year old WWII that I had reground to a flat cut for
cutting flat bottom groves
Many swear by switching out to use a dedicated rip blade, I used to do that
but really don't see the advantage over the Forrest WWII unless I plan to
rip a bunch of wood that is over 2" thick. I will say that Forrest now
offers a rip blade, the first ever IIRC.. I don't know if it is better for
ripping or simply to satisfy the customers desires.
Anyway to sum this all up, you will most likely be money ahead if you
simply start off with a Forrest WWII 40 tooth regular kerf blade and not
worry about babying it for any cutting shy of cutting through a bunch of
nails and or cutting material that may have a bunch of grit embedded in it.
Read that as be particular with where the wood comes from, don't cut wood
that the neighbor brings over that has been used out in the street as a
skate board ramp.
I use my WWII for cutting plywood, even the $120 a sheet stuff. I will
share a hint though when cross cutting plywood.
I first make a shallow scoring cut on the bottom of the plywood and then
rise the blade and run the work through again. The result is no tear out
using a WWII blade.
I suspect that most are on a budget and don't need the longevity that the
Forrest affords you. Most any new blade will cut well, the test is how
well does that blade cut after 18 months of weekly and daily use.
You really don't want to use a thin kerf blade. Thin kerf blades are
marginal problem solvers for saws that are WAY underpowered. The can cause
less than flat cuts in particular when cutting angles and or compound
angles. FWIW I was talked into buying a good quality Regular kerf
Systematic combination blade to use on my "1" hp craftsman TS. That blade
cut better than any thin kerf blade that I had previously used.
Again, I don't think I would practice on anything other than a Forrest.
Lessor blades are going to yield lessor results.
A 20% hook is pretty high, no? The wood may be inclined to feed itself!
Anyway, it appears that I may save some time and money by going with
this blade, so I appreciate the time and effort spent to help make me a
"happy camper"! :)
There was even more convincing than I needed, but maybe someone else
learned something too.
Based on reading a lot of blade reviews, on separate occasions, it does
seem likely that those who were not satisfied probably needed saw
adjustments (or smoother-running belts, or a new saw ; ) In numerous
cases, those that made the adjustments wrote that they got improved results.
I have no idea.
The wood may be inclined to feed itself!
Seriously that blade handles 99.5% of what I want to do with it, the
other .5% is done with the Flat grind Forrest II.
If for some reason the blade does not yield stellar results, you have a
misalignment problem with the saw.
The blade is built and flattened to tight tolerances. I gladly pay a
little extra to have Forrest do the resharpening and tune ups.
typically I pay less than $30 plus shipping. It will be a long time
before it needs that.
Let me warn you. If you use a zero clearance insert, do not tilt the
blade with the insert in place. That will unflatten the blade in a
heart beat. ;~) DAMHIKT.
Who me?! Yep, BTDT. Generally speaking, if a mistake can be made in the
shop, I've made it. Especially if it involves angles. Yesterday I played
trim carpenter on a bath remodel, pocket door trim, base board, shoe
molding, et al, and managed to dodge angled bullets all day, but only
because I made sure I had sufficient material to allow for my usual screw
And, this morning, the painters are covering nicely for me. ;)
Leather apron if it does helps, but if you pay attention to the saw
you will minimize that problem. One of the reasons my father quit
using his wood working machines was his hearing, he could no longer
hear well enough. Listening to the machine is an important part of
Bill just so you know you will do "something stupid" or something will
just happen, you are doing your best to minimize that risk. Go out and
have fun making something, if nothing else make some smaller boards.
The experience will help you learn abot your saw.
another bolt to loosen/tighten; now it is a cam clamp.
Not only that it would cost $150 to obtain this part.
Riving knife? Much safer than a splitter because it always hugs the
blade. You are aware that you can't retrofit a riving knife to a saw
that came without one? Unless you manage to fabricate it yourself
somehow. Which would then void your "warranty".
You can improve on the stock splitter with the Biesemeyer aftermarket
device assuming it works on your saw:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Or a splitter/blade guard combo from Lee Styron might be just the
ticket for you:
From viewing their web site, the Grizzly fence looks to have been
re-engineered from the one on my G1023. My lever handle is roughly
cast, the pic looks like a nicer looking arm. I would rate my fence as
"OK". It is quite solid. Waxing the table, rails, and pads on the
fence makes all the difference in terms of smooth sliding.
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