2" long 3/8 straight router bit?

I am building a kitchen island and I'm using 3.5x3.5 maple legs. I want to put cross pieces into them with mortise and tenon joinery. The cross pieces are 5.5" wide and I was going to use a 3/8" tenon 2" long. Problem is I can't seem to locate a router bit, spiral or straight, that will cut the mortise. Seems like the longest is 1.25". Will that be long enough? Am I making the tenons too long?
-Jim
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3/8 shank x 2" flute scarce but would check Onsrud. "Forget about it" in 1/2" shank solid spirals. Oddly 1/4 shanked solid carbide straight fluted cutters are good to

and skill to use. (requires very shallow hits/pass, very fragile.) Your mortice too deep? I would say not but I'd opt for a more modest depth and supplement with corner braces & strategic hardware. Routs all day long: http://patwarner.com / *********************************

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On 3/13/2011 1:15 PM, jtpr wrote:

"End mills" will work in routers and can be had in much longer lengths at:
http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=All+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCutting%3A+H.S.S.+%26+Solid+Carbide%2F%2F%2F%2FEnd+Mills
FWIW, I use them exclusively in my Multi-Router, powered by a PC 690 router motor. <For a 3/8" end mill you will want a 3/8" collet>.
Lots to choose from, so unless you know exactly what you want prepare to spend some time researching.
Otherwise, call Travers, tell them what task you are doing with the end mills and what your needs are, and they will tell you precisely what you need without you having to wade through the countless choices on their web site/catalog.
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I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...
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wrote:

I would want something running slower than 22,000 RPM...
End mills run fine at that speed. Been there done that with about 1000 plunge cuts in Ipe with a single bit.
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http://www.travers.com/subcat.asp?navPath=All+Products%2F%2F%2F%2FCutting%3A+H.S.S.+%26+Solid+Carbide%2F%2F%2F%2FEnd+Mills
Might I add to that, I used a 3/8" 4 flute end mill bit to cut probably 1000+ punge cut, stopped, through cuts in Ipe. It out lasted the previous 3 carbide bits which were good for about 200 plunge cuts.
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"jtpr" wrote:

This project may be the justification for the purchase of a dedicated mortising machine<G>.
Might want to check out 4 flute end mills used for metal cutting milling machines.
Lew
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The later is an extremely viable and cheaper alternative. ;~)
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I previously wrote:

Another thought.
A 3/8" carbide forstner bit.
It will go to a depth of 2" with no problem as long as you have the patience to clear out the waste every 1/4"-3/8" of depth.
Lew
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MortisePal bits don't have 2" worth of sharp but they're 3-1/2" long:
http://www.mortisepal.com/storefront.html
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jtpr wrote:

No, they are not too long; OTOH, 1.25" would be fine too. IMO..
You don't need more than 1.25" cutting length as long as the *total* length of the bit will accomodate the depth you want to cut; after all, you aren't planning on hogging out the entire 2" in one pass, are you?
Eagle America has 3/8 x3" bits as do many other places.
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Would not be cutting >flute length whence flute diameter is = shank diameter. Chip will not escape and shank rub will be a problem. ***************************************************************

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routerman wrote:

He is cutting a mortice. He cuts the mortice length in "X" passes to 1.25 deep. As he goes deeper than the cutting edge, the chips pass out through the portion of the mortice length already cut just as they do getting to 1.25. It will work just fine, do it with frequency.
dadiOH ________________________

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Thank you all. These are great alternatives. I actually was considering buying a mortising machine:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082432/30900/WoodRiver-Bench-Top-Mortiser-with-Chisels-and-Bits.aspx
My thought was, "hey this is more for the bride then myself, so I can get this past the finance committee." Then, now that I have justified the expense I started looking at horizontal tables:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRRhOjNx5oA&feature=related

Then I saw this and thought it would be a cool project as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciXplz3SrMk&feature=player_embedded

Anyway, I am leaning more toward the horizontal idea as I think I would end up with a much more versatile tool for my money then a dedicated mortise machine. Of course I would need a router motor, but I should be able to find a used one for short money.
The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap about it.
Thanks again, what think of my ideas?
-Jim
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"jtpr" wrote:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2082432/30900/WoodRiver-Bench-Top-Mortiser-with-Chisels-and-Bits.aspx
My thought was, "hey this is more for the bride then myself, so I can get this past the finance committee." Then, now that I have justified the expense I started looking at horizontal tables:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VRRhOjNx5oA&feature=related

Then I saw this and thought it would be a cool project as well:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ciXplz3SrMk&feature=player_embedded

Anyway, I am leaning more toward the horizontal idea as I think I would end up with a much more versatile tool for my money then a dedicated mortise machine. Of course I would need a router motor, but I should be able to find a used one for short money.
The wood for these legs cost me about $240 and a lot of time getting them cut and square, so I don't want to screw this up by being cheap about it.
Thanks again, what think of my ideas? --------------------------------- SFWIW.
The mortising machine from Woodcraft above uses a 1/2 HP, 4 pole induction motor which is a much better choice than a router based device which operates with a universal motor.
YMMV
Lew
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Hey this is maybe not as versitile as a multi-router or other horizontal router but much fmore fun.. get a swing chisle mortiser. A real must if you are doing through mortises and want squared edges with no extra work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJUJ796jxls


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5x0tEp5XYk&feature=autoplay&list=PL5A4CCF3EB4C289BB&index8&playnext=2

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Two inches is may be overkill on the tenon length.
How thick is the cross piece?
I'm amazed this thread has gone this far and no one has yet suggested creating the mortise with a drill and chisel. You probably already have the drill. A chisel takes up little storage space when you are not using it. Paring the sides of the mortise with a sharp chisel is fun!
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Actually, that is what I intended in the beginning, but I have 24 of these to do and that way just gets old. But thank you for the suggestion
-Jim
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wrote:

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ONSRUD-Routing-End-Mill-4WAF3?Pid=search 1-1/2" cutter length, not cheap.
http://www.woodworkersworld.net/solid_carbide_spirals_router_bits.shtml 1/2" bits go to 2" cutter length.
BUT, you'd be doing incremental depth cuts for them anyway, so either should work for you.
-- Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises. -- Demosthenes
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The cross piece is 51/2" x 3/4"x different lengths.
-Jim
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